Tramontemagno: Inside Monferrato’s Quiet Vermouth Revival
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Tramontemagno: Inside Monferrato’s Quiet Vermouth Revival
A small hilltop bar in Montemagno is quietly reviving Piemonte’s affections for vermouth with a dash of resplendent views.
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
Tramontemagno: Inside Monferrato’s Quiet Vermouth Revival
Nestled in one of the narrower lanes just below Montemagno Castle, Tramontemagno feels like a secret whispered among locals; the kind of place you hear about over aperitivo, not through Google Maps.
Its modest scale belies a certain ambition: a stylish modern bar (vermutería meets vinería) with a sweeping view across the rolling hills of Monferrato.
As dusk softens the light over the Montalbera’s vineyards, a patchwork panorama of vine-striped slopes, fields and the silhouette of distant woods embodies why locals come and linger.
Its modest scale belies a certain ambition: a stylish modern bar (vermutería meets vinería) with a sweeping view across the rolling hills of Monferrato.
As dusk softens the light over the Montalbera’s vineyards, a patchwork panorama of vine-striped slopes, fields and the silhouette of distant woods embodies why locals come and linger.
Tramontemagno’s revitalised interior retains a modern countryside style
Tramontemagno’s facade and interior clearly benefited from an extensive, modern renovation. Stepping inside, one is struck by the clean lines, warm materials and intimate tables perfect for dates or catch-ups. The bar counter glows, the glass bottles arrayed in backlit shelves. It’s neither fussy nor rustic, but a thoughtful balance: comfortable, elegant, welcoming.
Tramontemagno functions not just as a bar, but as a hub for the community.
Vermouth lies at the heart of Tramontemagno
One drink really takes centre stage, and with good reason: vermouth, once almost forgotten beyond the odd aperitif, is reclaimed here with gusto.
The founders, Luca Talpo and Ludovico Maria Vittorio Cremona, are friends who left Milan for this hilltop nook in Montemagno. They cherry-picked a rather noble selection of vermouths from Turin and around Piemonte. It’s easy to deride this approach as a bit “hipster”, but it reads as genuine revivalism, especially when a pour of Cocchi Storico or Turin-style Bianco over ice.
Here, vermouth is not a gimmick; it is treated as a heritage spirit.
The wine list is deeply rooted in the place. You will find the estate wines of Tenuta Montemagno with labels such as Invictus (Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato) and Austerum (Barbera d’Asti) among them. You could almost see the manicured vineyards of Tenuta Montemagno if the bar simply pointed the other way.
More labels are poured alongside a rotating selection of other micro-producers from the immediate zone.
The staff are deeply knowledgeable and passionate about the labels and grapes served here, such as the crisp stone fruit of Timorasso and the rolling mousse of Barbera-based sparkling. In sipping local wines while gazing out at the same hills where the grapes were grown, you sense the rare continuity between the landscape and the glass.
Tramontemagno offers modest taglieri—light boards of cold cuts, cheeses, preserves and seasonal extras—sourced as much as possible from Slow Food Praesidium ingredients and “km 0” producers in the Monferrato territory. For those who prefer plant-based fare, there is a vegan platter (typically vegetables, legumes, pickles, occasionally local focaccia) priced modestly. Gluten-free guests are also thoughtfully accommodated. Food may play a supporting role here, but the care is evident nonetheless.
Tramontemagno functions not just as a bar, but as a community hub. In a town small enough to cross paths every day, this is where people gather—old friends, new arrivals, all ages. Locals might drop in just for a vermouth after dinner; others come for the view, the aperitivo and the ambience.
Time slows here. Tramontemagno is not a grand destination, nor a temple of luxury, but something more sincere. If Monferrato’s charm unfolds through quiet rediscovery, then Tramontemagno may be one of its most vivid expressions.
Reservations are encouraged, especially over the weekend.
Tramontemagno – Vermuteria & Vineria, Vicolo Primo, 2, 14030 Montemagno Monferrato (AT), Italy. Phone: +39 392 6185085 / +39 366 2945291. Website: tramontemagno.com. Instagram: @tramontemagno__
Written by Liam Collens // Read more reviews here. Liam is a restaurant critic, food and travel writer based in the Middle East. He owns EatGoSee and contributes to other publications. You can find Liam on Substack, Threads, Instagram, BlueSky or Facebook.
The founders, Luca Talpo and Ludovico Maria Vittorio Cremona, are friends who left Milan for this hilltop nook in Montemagno. They cherry-picked a rather noble selection of vermouths from Turin and around Piemonte. It’s easy to deride this approach as a bit “hipster”, but it reads as genuine revivalism, especially when a pour of Cocchi Storico or Turin-style Bianco over ice.
Here, vermouth is not a gimmick; it is treated as a heritage spirit.
The wine list is deeply rooted in the place. You will find the estate wines of Tenuta Montemagno with labels such as Invictus (Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato) and Austerum (Barbera d’Asti) among them. You could almost see the manicured vineyards of Tenuta Montemagno if the bar simply pointed the other way.
More labels are poured alongside a rotating selection of other micro-producers from the immediate zone.
The staff are deeply knowledgeable and passionate about the labels and grapes served here, such as the crisp stone fruit of Timorasso and the rolling mousse of Barbera-based sparkling. In sipping local wines while gazing out at the same hills where the grapes were grown, you sense the rare continuity between the landscape and the glass.
Tramontemagno offers modest taglieri—light boards of cold cuts, cheeses, preserves and seasonal extras—sourced as much as possible from Slow Food Praesidium ingredients and “km 0” producers in the Monferrato territory. For those who prefer plant-based fare, there is a vegan platter (typically vegetables, legumes, pickles, occasionally local focaccia) priced modestly. Gluten-free guests are also thoughtfully accommodated. Food may play a supporting role here, but the care is evident nonetheless.
Tramontemagno brings the local community together
Tramontemagno functions not just as a bar, but as a community hub. In a town small enough to cross paths every day, this is where people gather—old friends, new arrivals, all ages. Locals might drop in just for a vermouth after dinner; others come for the view, the aperitivo and the ambience.
Time slows here. Tramontemagno is not a grand destination, nor a temple of luxury, but something more sincere. If Monferrato’s charm unfolds through quiet rediscovery, then Tramontemagno may be one of its most vivid expressions.
Reservations are encouraged, especially over the weekend.
Tramontemagno – Vermuteria & Vineria, Vicolo Primo, 2, 14030 Montemagno Monferrato (AT), Italy. Phone: +39 392 6185085 / +39 366 2945291. Website: tramontemagno.com. Instagram: @tramontemagno__
Written by Liam Collens // Read more reviews here. Liam is a restaurant critic, food and travel writer based in the Middle East. He owns EatGoSee and contributes to other publications. You can find Liam on Substack, Threads, Instagram, BlueSky or Facebook.
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