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21 grams, Dubai: One of Dubai’s Best Casual Restaurants
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21 grams, Dubai: One of Dubai's Best Casual Restaurants
21 grams Urban Balkan Bistro, 5 plates, 1 filtered water, 2 coffees and a juice: approx 370 dhs. The breakfast menu features main dishes 52-88 dhs, baked dishes 48-60 dhs, baked trays 175-200 dhs, shared breakfast 190 dhs, side dishes 10-58 dhs. 21 grams Urban Balkan Bistro, 2nd Floor, Meyan Mall, Al Thanya St, Umm Suqeim 2, Dubai, United Arab Emirates.
Written by Liam Collens // See other reviews here.
21 grams Urban Balkan Bistro’s modern Balkan soul food nourishes offering one of Dubai’s most original restaurants with aplomb and originality.
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
21 grams, Dubai: One of Dubai's Best Casual Restaurants
You see, timing is everything. I debated dabbing ink about 21 grams, a regular haunt and, frankly, refuge for respite. Sharing could ruin so much. You lot would start turning up and I would have a harder time getting a table in its small (but perfectly formed) dining space. But my reluctance were challenged some key changes. A pandemic followed by 21 grams securing a prime kiosk in Time Out Market and, now, a big swanky re-opening in Meyan Mall.
21 grams is, in many ways, an unlikely Dubai success story. An unlicensed restaurant self-styled as “Urban Balkan” survives a hospitality-crushing pandemic then expands to two top-notch locations. Balkan cuisine? Yet alone impliedly-niche “Urban Bakan” cuisine (whatever that is). Really, when was the last time you turned to a friend enquiring as to the whereabouts of the nearest Balkan restaurant? When did your heart last sing for stuffed cabbage rolls? Go on, tell me. I’ll wait.
I feared 21 grams would not survive COVID lockdowns but, as the Balkans often do, 21 grams survived hardship and the rest is history.
21 grams new space expands on the look and feel of its original decor.
21 grams is, in many ways, an unlikely Dubai success story. An unlicensed restaurant self-styled as “Urban Balkan” survives a hospitality-crushing pandemic then expands to two top-notch locations. Balkan cuisine? Yet alone impliedly-niche “Urban Bakan” cuisine (whatever that is). Really, when was the last time you turned to a friend enquiring as to the whereabouts of the nearest Balkan restaurant? When did your heart last sing for stuffed cabbage rolls? Go on, tell me. I’ll wait.
I feared 21 grams would not survive COVID lockdowns but, as the Balkans often do, 21 grams survived hardship and the rest is history.
21 grams new space expands on the look and feel of its original decor.
21 grams’ new home in Meyan Mall, Jumeirah
So here we are, opening weekend. There are no Brazilian Carnival dancers, no card-wielding magicians, no trapeze artists vying for your attention. No 20-piece jazz band, no cake-cutting, no gender reveal party, no flares strapped to 21 grams’ diesel-strength cold brew (38 dhs). No towering sumac-glittered kebab breaking a Guinness World Record while some gormless, Tiktok ‘star’ gurns furiously chopping shallots whilst looking into your eyes.. None of the tiresome tantara that Dubai froths out by protocol, as if anything less would resign you to failure.
No. Stasha and her troop get to business pirouetting around 21 grams carrying signature komplet eggs (56 dhs) from its newly-minted kitchen. Their party trick is to smile. Yes, service by jovial folk delighted to showcase a taste of the homeland, albeit primped for discerning Dubai diners. Take the seared banana split wallowing in a semi-sweet, butterscotch-like sauce (40 dhs). A nostalgic tribute to childhood.
21 grams banana split (first), its location now sits on the second floor of Meyan Mall, Jumeirah.
Oversized windows exhibit the nearby Burj Al Arab and Jumeirah Beach Hotel. 21 grams now bathed in natural light cascading across aged pink and ash grey, perfumed with flowers sent from fellow restauranteurs congratulating them on a successful opening.
Mrs EatGoSee and I emerge from the elevator onto a work-in-progress second floor; she, a crimson-haired Snow White vs my striking resemblance to one of the Seven Dwarves. What would my dwarf name be? Let’s call me Dumpy. Snow White and Dumpy land ravenous for the sort of feed that 21 grams serves in spades.
21 grams new space with fabulous views of iconic Dubai buildings like the Burj Al Arab.
No. Stasha and her troop get to business pirouetting around 21 grams carrying signature komplet eggs (56 dhs) from its newly-minted kitchen. Their party trick is to smile. Yes, service by jovial folk delighted to showcase a taste of the homeland, albeit primped for discerning Dubai diners. Take the seared banana split wallowing in a semi-sweet, butterscotch-like sauce (40 dhs). A nostalgic tribute to childhood.
21 grams banana split (first), its location now sits on the second floor of Meyan Mall, Jumeirah.
Oversized windows exhibit the nearby Burj Al Arab and Jumeirah Beach Hotel. 21 grams now bathed in natural light cascading across aged pink and ash grey, perfumed with flowers sent from fellow restauranteurs congratulating them on a successful opening.
Mrs EatGoSee and I emerge from the elevator onto a work-in-progress second floor; she, a crimson-haired Snow White vs my striking resemblance to one of the Seven Dwarves. What would my dwarf name be? Let’s call me Dumpy. Snow White and Dumpy land ravenous for the sort of feed that 21 grams serves in spades.
21 grams new space with fabulous views of iconic Dubai buildings like the Burj Al Arab.
Burek is a slice of hangover medicine between layers of impossibly flaky phyllo pastry, crisp and golden. A heavy wedge of comfort food that does not judge you for the night before. It sits in your stomach, wrapping around you like a duvet with soothing whispers of “there there”.
21 grams’ food remains its best feature
Stalwarts reassuringly remain on the menu: the hearty shakshuka-like pindjur eggs, a duo of poached eggs on a rich, tomato-based ragu gently spiced (52 dhs). The totemic cheese or meat Burek is a slice of hangover medicine between layers of impossibly flaky phyllo pastry, crisp and golden (48-55 dhs). A heavy wedge of comfort food that does not judge you for the night before. It sits in your stomach, wrapping around you like a duvet with soothing whispers of “there there”. Dumpy’s favourite, the Balkan Breakfast, scrambles eggs in tomato and peppers with a brace of spiced, beef chorizo sausage refreshed with crumbled feta (75 dhs).
21 grams favourites such as the pindjur, balkan breakfast and cheese burek.
Snow White delves into her favourite: a golden, spiral phyllo, blistered, flaky and crisp, lacquered in a sticky, honey sheen, lysing with silky goat’s cheese scented with woody, fresh thyme (52 dhs). I order the suave polenta popping with lacto-fermented corn, grassy grilled asparagus and thrumming with aged, rich Kashaval cheese (58 dhs). Dumpy like. Dumpy should have ordered an extra poached egg (10 dhs).
21 grams creamy kashaval rich polenta with asparagus (first) then the spinach omelette.
The fluffy, spinach omelette leans on Brussel sprouts and seared baby gem wedges for pops of crunch and bitterness (62 dhs). 21 grams’ Princess Crepe rolling kajmak, a sort of salted clotted cream, jewelled with supple dried figs and almonds (60 dhs) leaves us on a sweet high. Washed down with a cherry clove juice that reminds me of my dearly missed Trinidad Sorrel (26 dhs) and infused house water (18 dhs). Yes, tap water! – an innovation for Dubai restaurants.
And so we waddle towards the door, heading home stuffed and satisfied. Looking around, customers fold in brimming with smiles to see this local hero emerge and grow into what it’s become today. Local businesses like these survive on repeat business, and repeat I shall.
21 grams infused tap water followed by a flat white coffee.
21 grams favourites such as the pindjur, balkan breakfast and cheese burek.
Snow White delves into her favourite: a golden, spiral phyllo, blistered, flaky and crisp, lacquered in a sticky, honey sheen, lysing with silky goat’s cheese scented with woody, fresh thyme (52 dhs). I order the suave polenta popping with lacto-fermented corn, grassy grilled asparagus and thrumming with aged, rich Kashaval cheese (58 dhs). Dumpy like. Dumpy should have ordered an extra poached egg (10 dhs).
21 grams creamy kashaval rich polenta with asparagus (first) then the spinach omelette.
The fluffy, spinach omelette leans on Brussel sprouts and seared baby gem wedges for pops of crunch and bitterness (62 dhs). 21 grams’ Princess Crepe rolling kajmak, a sort of salted clotted cream, jewelled with supple dried figs and almonds (60 dhs) leaves us on a sweet high. Washed down with a cherry clove juice that reminds me of my dearly missed Trinidad Sorrel (26 dhs) and infused house water (18 dhs). Yes, tap water! – an innovation for Dubai restaurants.
And so we waddle towards the door, heading home stuffed and satisfied. Looking around, customers fold in brimming with smiles to see this local hero emerge and grow into what it’s become today. Local businesses like these survive on repeat business, and repeat I shall.
21 grams infused tap water followed by a flat white coffee.
21 grams, would I return?
Several times a month. I look forward to dining on the balcony or private dining room for dinner.
Dubai diners seeking unique locations, supporters of home-grown restaurants and Balkan food. Breakfast hunters looking beyond bennies and avo toast. Jumeirah residents
21 grams, who should come?
Dubai diners seeking unique locations, supporters of home-grown restaurants and Balkan food. Breakfast hunters looking beyond bennies and avo toast. Jumeirah residents
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