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The Dubai MICHELIN Edition
The Michelin Collection.
The Dubai MICHELIN Guide landed last week awarding restaurants with two MICHELIN stars, one MICHELIN star, bibs & more. Here's my thoughts.
PART I: Check out those restaurants I've reviewed that earned Michelin accolades this week. PART II: check out a summary of my reflections and views now the awards are out.
Written by EatGoSee
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Dubai MICHELIN solidifies Dubai as a global culinary destination
A good mix of awards from 2 stars to recommendations
The Lows
My personal view is that some places are really overlooked; some rated curiously high (but isn't this normal?)
Unconvinced that some Bibs are actually VFM
Part I: The Dubai MICHELIN Collection
You can read my restaurant reviews about Dubai MICHELIN awarded restaurants here:
DUBAI’S 1 STAR RESTAURANTS
11 Woodfire, Jumeirah
Ossiano, Atlantis Dubai
Tresind Studio, Palm Jumeirah
DUBAI’S GREEN STAR RESTAURANTS
Lowe
DUBAI’S BIB GOURMAND RESTAURANTS
Goldfish Sushi and Yakitori, Al Wasl
Kinoya, The Greens (EatGoSee Review, FACT Magazine Review)
Ninive, Sheikh Zayed Road
Orfali Bros, Al Wasl
REIF Japanese Kushiyaki, Al Wasl
Teible, Jaddaf Waterfront
DUBAI’S 1 STAR RESTAURANTS
11 Woodfire, Jumeirah
Ossiano, Atlantis Dubai
Tresind Studio, Palm Jumeirah
DUBAI’S GREEN STAR RESTAURANTS
Lowe
DUBAI’S BIB GOURMAND RESTAURANTS
Goldfish Sushi and Yakitori, Al Wasl
Kinoya, The Greens (EatGoSee Review, FACT Magazine Review)
Ninive, Sheikh Zayed Road
Orfali Bros, Al Wasl
REIF Japanese Kushiyaki, Al Wasl
Teible, Jaddaf Waterfront
PART II: My Take on the 2022 Dubai Michelin Guide?
ICYMI, the Michelin Guide declared its inaugural Dubai Michelin Guide this week. That’s right, Dubai, not UAE, courtesy of Dubai Tourism. You can find the whole list here: stars (green and red), bibs and recommendations.
I watched the awards online, like many. Since the announcements, the food community celebrated and commiserated; there were hot takes, conclusions and speculation, but never a moment dry of opinions. See Courtney Brandt’s good reflective sum up here, FooDiva ran the numbers with comments galore.
A day of emotions. Some palpable disappointments were visible on stage (you know who). The ‘heart-wrenching moment award’ is a tussle: the embrace between chef Akmal and his wife Inez when 11 Woodfire* earned its first Michelin star. The other – and my favourite – chef Salam Dakkak at Bait Maryam who, without words, captured that unspeakable joy of being acknowledged for a lifetime’s work.
The hours, the sacrifice, the toil of the last five years on an industry ravaged by slowing economies, the small matter of a global pandemic, constant changes in regulations, the double-edged sword of aggregate delivery services (you know who) and – dare I say – the unhelpful and, at times, parasitic whims of disingenuous food influencers. I don’t consider myself an ‘influencer’ and, even if I did, this doesn’t prohibit me from judging my own kind. #ISaidWhatISaid

Overall. The Dubai Michelin Guide landed well IMHO. Some places featured higher than expected; others a bit snubbed. But these things never go as expected AND it could have been a lot worse. Let’s just bathe in the afterglow of Dubai sitting shoulder-to-shoulder with some of the best culinary destinations where one of the world’s most coveted awards reconfirms the city possesses some world-class talent.
The First Word of Warning: Restaurant Owners. In my work life I often tell newly promoted team members that what got them here is not necessarily what will take them forwards. It may also not be enough to keep them where they are. So my message to newly starred restaurants is that you are playing in a different ballpark now. Being the dreamy, local high school hunk is not the same as being a world-class supermodel. Whether your Stars will be platforms for success or an albatross pinning you down under the crushing weight of expectation is down to you. There are some 1*s where, I dunno. I sense generosity. Stay sharp, take feedback, focus on repeat customers, watch your prices.
The Second Word of Warning: PRs and Marketing. I am already seeing some eye-rolling behaviour. A few ‘first’ adjectives: the awards were named in alphabetical order, not in “most coveted” descending order. If your name was called first, it’s because it started with a number or an A. It does not make you the first (and impliedly best) bib gourmand, recommended or starred restaurant. You should know better. Second, it’s restaurants that win the Star, not the chef. There is no such thing as a Michelin-starred chef. There never has. If the chef leaves, the restaurant keeps the star (until the next guide perhaps). Stop misleading people.
Between each tiering, restaurants are (more or less) correctly placed relative to each other. You may think I’m splitting hairs here. But, broadly, the restaurants look about right relative to each other. Broadly, the starred restaurants are stronger than the recommendations, the Bibs are mostly correctly allocated (but I could name one shocker of a placing). It more or less makes sense.
WITHIN each tiering, there are some STANDOUT question marks IMHO. Spoiler alert: I am not a Michelin inspector. So I am looking at this as a seasoned global traveller (a bon vivant if you will) with experience and expectations of what a 1*, 2* and bib gourmand restaurant mean. To that end, let me talk about my leading disappointments (without trashing people, but boy could I):
What A Day It Was.
I watched the awards online, like many. Since the announcements, the food community celebrated and commiserated; there were hot takes, conclusions and speculation, but never a moment dry of opinions. See Courtney Brandt’s good reflective sum up here, FooDiva ran the numbers with comments galore.
A day of emotions. Some palpable disappointments were visible on stage (you know who). The ‘heart-wrenching moment award’ is a tussle: the embrace between chef Akmal and his wife Inez when 11 Woodfire* earned its first Michelin star. The other – and my favourite – chef Salam Dakkak at Bait Maryam who, without words, captured that unspeakable joy of being acknowledged for a lifetime’s work.
The hours, the sacrifice, the toil of the last five years on an industry ravaged by slowing economies, the small matter of a global pandemic, constant changes in regulations, the double-edged sword of aggregate delivery services (you know who) and – dare I say – the unhelpful and, at times, parasitic whims of disingenuous food influencers. I don’t consider myself an ‘influencer’ and, even if I did, this doesn’t prohibit me from judging my own kind. #ISaidWhatISaid
Overall. The Dubai Michelin Guide landed well IMHO. Some places featured higher than expected; others a bit snubbed. But these things never go as expected AND it could have been a lot worse. Let’s just bathe in the afterglow of Dubai sitting shoulder-to-shoulder with some of the best culinary destinations where one of the world’s most coveted awards reconfirms the city possesses some world-class talent.
The First Word of Warning: Restaurant Owners. In my work life I often tell newly promoted team members that what got them here is not necessarily what will take them forwards. It may also not be enough to keep them where they are. So my message to newly starred restaurants is that you are playing in a different ballpark now. Being the dreamy, local high school hunk is not the same as being a world-class supermodel. Whether your Stars will be platforms for success or an albatross pinning you down under the crushing weight of expectation is down to you. There are some 1*s where, I dunno. I sense generosity. Stay sharp, take feedback, focus on repeat customers, watch your prices.
The Second Word of Warning: PRs and Marketing. I am already seeing some eye-rolling behaviour. A few ‘first’ adjectives: the awards were named in alphabetical order, not in “most coveted” descending order. If your name was called first, it’s because it started with a number or an A. It does not make you the first (and impliedly best) bib gourmand, recommended or starred restaurant. You should know better. Second, it’s restaurants that win the Star, not the chef. There is no such thing as a Michelin-starred chef. There never has. If the chef leaves, the restaurant keeps the star (until the next guide perhaps). Stop misleading people.
Between each tiering, restaurants are (more or less) correctly placed relative to each other. You may think I’m splitting hairs here. But, broadly, the restaurants look about right relative to each other. Broadly, the starred restaurants are stronger than the recommendations, the Bibs are mostly correctly allocated (but I could name one shocker of a placing). It more or less makes sense.
WITHIN each tiering, there are some STANDOUT question marks IMHO. Spoiler alert: I am not a Michelin inspector. So I am looking at this as a seasoned global traveller (a bon vivant if you will) with experience and expectations of what a 1*, 2* and bib gourmand restaurant mean. To that end, let me talk about my leading disappointments (without trashing people, but boy could I):
The discussion we should have now is: should we aim for equality or equity between the weighting of international restaurants vs homegrown? What are the barriers to entry for homegrown talents to go up the rankings? Do local restaurants even want Michelin accolades??
IN THE STARS...
Tresind Studio* and Ossiano* should have two stars, and not one. I am delighted for both chefs, genuinely; but I wanted more for them and I am not alone. Ossiano*’s Gregoire curated a tour de force Metanoia menu of high-order, progressive French cooking (words you seldom see together). It’s emblematic of “excellent cooking, worth a detour” Tresind Studio* could have missed out on stars altogether due to closures during key judging months but, nonetheless, it walked away rightly awarded – just awarded too low IMHO. Fun fact: there are only thirteen 1* Indian restaurants in the world. There was a 2* Indian restaurant in San Francisco that appears to have closed during COVID. Net, I am not clear that MICHELIN IS CLEAR about Indian food and how to rate it. French, Italian, Japanese, Spanish: they get those cuisines. Indian food? I’m not convinced. Tresind Studio* will break barriers by inching towards 2* ratings. I can’t wait for that day to arrive.
I have not dined at all the 1* / 2** restaurants in Dubai, but I am excited to check out the remaining ones!
BOCA, I wanted it for the team. I see the passion, desire and thought leadership from Omar Shihab more than anyone in Dubai. Omar does what Steve Jobs used to call moving the puck to where it is going to be, and not where it has been. He’s emblematic of the sustainability movement in Dubai and, one day, statues will be built for him.
To be clear, Lowe – winner of the only Green Star in Dubai – is one of my favourite Dubai restaurants. It should not be an either-or decision. Both Lowe and BOCA deserve acclaim.
21 grams should be there. 21 grams churns good food at moderate prices more so than many restaurants in Dubai. Again, REIF, Orfali and others deserve their awards. They just deserve Stasha and her phenomenal team as company.
Well, the usual cut and thrust of who will be on the list next year, who will lose a star, gain a star: the predictable drama.
However, the conversation I would like to have is about what we can do to better promote and highlight homegrown talent in Dubai? The guide is VERY well represented by international imports, but local talent feels a little thinner on the ground. The discussion we should have now is: should we aim for equality or equity between the weighting of international restaurants vs homegrown? What are the barriers to entry for homegrown talents to go up the rankings? Do local restaurants even want Michelin accolades?? What would it take to support/enable homegrown talent further? Who has to do what? I’m very interested in THAT discussion.
I have not dined at all the 1* / 2** restaurants in Dubai, but I am excited to check out the remaining ones!
IN THE GREEN STARS…
BOCA, I wanted it for the team. I see the passion, desire and thought leadership from Omar Shihab more than anyone in Dubai. Omar does what Steve Jobs used to call moving the puck to where it is going to be, and not where it has been. He’s emblematic of the sustainability movement in Dubai and, one day, statues will be built for him.
To be clear, Lowe – winner of the only Green Star in Dubai – is one of my favourite Dubai restaurants. It should not be an either-or decision. Both Lowe and BOCA deserve acclaim.
IN THE BIBS…
21 grams should be there. 21 grams churns good food at moderate prices more so than many restaurants in Dubai. Again, REIF, Orfali and others deserve their awards. They just deserve Stasha and her phenomenal team as company.
WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE?
Well, the usual cut and thrust of who will be on the list next year, who will lose a star, gain a star: the predictable drama.
However, the conversation I would like to have is about what we can do to better promote and highlight homegrown talent in Dubai? The guide is VERY well represented by international imports, but local talent feels a little thinner on the ground. The discussion we should have now is: should we aim for equality or equity between the weighting of international restaurants vs homegrown? What are the barriers to entry for homegrown talents to go up the rankings? Do local restaurants even want Michelin accolades?? What would it take to support/enable homegrown talent further? Who has to do what? I’m very interested in THAT discussion.
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