Michelin Guide Dubai 2023
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Michelin Guide Dubai 2023
The Dubai MICHELIN Guide landed this week, awarding restaurants with 2 Michelin Stars, several 1 Michelin Stars, growth in the bib gourmands & more. Here's my thoughts and views on this year's awards and then check out those restaurants I've reviewed that earned Michelin accolades this week.
Written by Liam Collens // See other reviews here.
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
ICYMI, the Michelin Guide unveiled its second Dubai Michelin Guide this week. That’s right, Dubai, not UAE, courtesy of Dubai Tourism. There is a guide in Abu Dhabi now but, last time I checked, the flow of traffic from Abu Dhabi to Dubai was still very, very strong. You can find the whole list here: stars (green and red), bibs and recommendations.
Overall. Michelin Guide Dubai 2023 landed well, in my view. Some of last’s year’s notable eyebrow-raisers were remedied. We will come to those. Yet, some places featured higher than expected; others were a bit snubbed. But these things never go as expected, and it could have been a lot worse.
My gratitude does not wane for these awards. The recognition it affords talented, hard-working people who toil away, often in quiet. People rewarded only by the few who know them and then suddenly, they glimmer in the light these accolades shine so bright. Now, in Dubai, they sit shoulder-to-shoulder with some of the world’s best culinary destinations. They hold one of the world’s most coveted awards. It reconfirms Dubai too possesses world-class talent.
A word of warning for restaurant owners. In my work life, I often tell newly-promoted team members that what got them here is not necessarily what will take them forward. It may not be enough to keep them where they are. So my message to the newly-awarded restaurants: you are playing in a different ballpark now. Being the dreamy, local high school hunk is not the same as being a world-class supermodel. Whether your Stars will be platforms for success or an albatross pinning you down under the crushing weight of expectation is up to you. There are some 1*s where I sense generosity. Stay sharp, take feedback, focus on repeat customers, watch your prices.
Last year, these names (and others) stood out. Tresind Studio rises to claim its much-deserved two Michelin stars. The significance of this cannot be understated. Tresind Studio is still a young restaurant. A quick search of the guide reconfirms there are only 15 1-Star Indian restaurants IN THE WORLD and, now with Tresind Studio, there are ONLY 2 2-Star Indian restaurants in the world (but Michelin’s website still only shows Tresind Studio when I search). Chef Himanshu Saini and his team’s 10,000 Gladwellian hours come to reward them. Tresind Studio is my laminated first-choice recommendation to anyone anytime they ask me about Dubai’s best restaurant or somewhere special. Hats off to Himanshu, Vipin and the team. Words cannot describe my joy for you.
21 grams is the quintessential bib gourmand restaurant. Solid food at a reasonable price. Balkan restaurants are almost one-for-one in Dubai. 21 grams does not have a trend to lift its wings or a grandiose hotel with footfall and a marketing budget. Graft, grind and resilience turn out goat’s cheese, honey phyllo pies and sarma cabbage rolls. Both earned a local cult following. My heart poured open with joy when the place I’d loved for years no longer had a table immediately available because it was packed. PACKED. The rest of the world found what many of us already knew. My greatest satisfaction is having to wait for a table at 21 grams and watching people take photos as they look around to see what other people are ordering. Long may it stay that way.
BOCA and, specifically, sustainability champion Omar Shihab rose to receive their first Green Michelin star. Omar does what Steve Jobs used to call moving the puck to where it is going to be and not to where it has been. He’s emblematic of the sustainability movement in Dubai, and one day, statues will be built for him. I watch other restaurants pay lip service to sustainability with quiet amusement. BOCA holds itself publicly accountable and with delicious results. BOCA’s dialled things up in recent months with a star sommelier, Shiv Menon, Star Wine Listing, several guest chef appearances and a new head chef, Patricia Roig. I could not be happier for them.
We could spend a lot of time here but let’s focus. Ossiano should have two stars. Gregoire Berger and his team are on par with the best two-star restaurants I’ve had the pleasure to dine in. The ingredient sourcing, the demonstrable technical skill and the storytelling exude the personality of the chef. It’s all there. Dubai’s food cognoscenti know it, his peers know it (and tell me), Himanshu said it accepting his two stars, MENA 50 Best and Gault Millau knew it. My heart raced when I saw Ossiano retained their star but it then slowed at realisation that, today, it would not collect a second. I will be at Ossiano next week for their collaboration with Jordnaer, where I look forward to dining again at a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in waiting.
I would also hear arguments that Hoseki should also have two-Michelin Stars, but I have not dined there for a year.
When I look WITHIN certain categories, I cannot describe them as peers. You cannot help but see a sliding scale. Some waited to see if certain restaurants would indeed lose their star. Ossiano, Hoseki and the newly-added Dinner by Heston and Avatara stand out to me as the strongest in the one-star group. The one-star group is a group of two halves in my experience to date. I look forward to testing that theory as I make my way around those 1 Stars I have yet to visit.
Orfali Bros stood out to me as another restaurant where I would hear arguments that it should be in the 1 Star league (especially given some of those 1 Stars). MENA 50 Best 2023’s no 1 restaurant, and local hero offers bib value, but I cannot help but wonder if they just missed the mark. At times, I sense that Teible could make a run for it.
Some other bib contenders strike me as a little pricier in reality than perhaps a bib gourmand should sustain.
Who else could be contenders for a bib? I would keep my eye on Lila Taqueria, Mohalla and, possibly, SLAB or Fusion Ceviche in years to come.
Others feel the same. It is hard to believe that Orfali, Reif Japanese Kushiyaki, 21 grams and others did not somehow merit an invite to the Michelin Guide. This would be a second consecutive placing for some. It was an inaugural appearance for others. Those are momentous and meaningful milestones for their own reasons. It cannot be understated. I understand the Michelin Guide does the same in other locations (e.g. Hong Kong and Macau).
I don’t care, and neither should you. “This is what we do” is the refuge of the lazy. Shunning these acknowledged award winners is disrespectful, at the very least. These are businesses, chefs and leaders that carried their teams and the public at large during a pandemic that nearly obliterated them. These are not feed in exchange for payment places. I know these restaurants. I know their teams. These are places you bring family. They are places you sit, elbows down and realise you are falling in love; they are places where you muster the courage to tell someone you love them. They are places you where you share the news that you are pregnant. They are places you mourn the loved ones for whom you can no longer share those moments there with them anymore. Owners, chefs, cooks and teams invested themselves and their resources in building what we enjoy in Dubai today. It is notable that Michelin – most pointedly with Orfali Bros and with Reif Japanese Kushiyaki – decided not to invite them to the awards despite Orfali Bros’ position in MENA 50 Best 2023 and Reif Othman was the 2022 Chef’s Choice Winner; an award voted by chefs to decide who stands out among their peers. It seems the profession and its jury are more charitable than its judges.
The point is that it is disrespectful to those chefs. It is disrespectful to their teams. It’s disrespectful to Dubai’s culinary community. It sullies their achievement. It’s disrespectful to the dining community that loves and holds them up. Do I want an award that does not want them, I ask myself.
There was plenty of room at the press conference this year, much like the year before. Hollow arguments about space constraints land with a thud. What, is Atlantis the Royal not big enough? It is probably one of those few buildings on Earth that you can see from space.
Michelin is not new, but it is new to the Middle East. If there was one thing I learned moving to this region: relationships are everything. Foster them, forge them, hold them dear. Maybe mes amis Michelin will find out for themselves.
MENA 50 Best does a much better job of rallying the community: whether it’s listed or unlisted restaurants, leading food voices in the community, suppliers and retailers. There is a tremendous sense of gathering and celebration. Of course, we haggle over those results too, but the conviviality it fosters is where Michelin could learn a thing or two.
Gault & Millau (if you can pronounce it) is an award people talk about once a year in certain circles once the awards are announced. The rest of the time I have to explain to people what that funny yellow plaque on the wall means. Gault & Millau faces a branding challenge but, broadly, I find myself agreeing more often than not with their scores and reviews (especially the critiques, which they seemed to tone down this year).
Gentle whispers rose to an audible thrum: Atlantis the Royal, a hotel so new, you can practically still smell the protective plastic film on the lobby sofa. A hotel that – just to make sure it was said – hosted the Michelin Guide event, somehow also, vicariously, walked away with a 1 Star, Service Team Award, Sommelier of the Year Award and New Opening of the Year. Samantha framed this very well, as usual. Allegedly, consistency is one of the key criteria for Michelin. There’s enough in this year’s awards to really make me question that. To be clear, I enjoyed an excellent meal at Dinner by Heston only last week. Their awards are deserved. However, for the rest, my eyebrows have yet to come down.
And now, where to eat.
Overall. Michelin Guide Dubai 2023 landed well, in my view. Some of last’s year’s notable eyebrow-raisers were remedied. We will come to those. Yet, some places featured higher than expected; others were a bit snubbed. But these things never go as expected, and it could have been a lot worse.
My gratitude does not wane for these awards. The recognition it affords talented, hard-working people who toil away, often in quiet. People rewarded only by the few who know them and then suddenly, they glimmer in the light these accolades shine so bright. Now, in Dubai, they sit shoulder-to-shoulder with some of the world’s best culinary destinations. They hold one of the world’s most coveted awards. It reconfirms Dubai too possesses world-class talent.
A word of warning for restaurant owners. In my work life, I often tell newly-promoted team members that what got them here is not necessarily what will take them forward. It may not be enough to keep them where they are. So my message to the newly-awarded restaurants: you are playing in a different ballpark now. Being the dreamy, local high school hunk is not the same as being a world-class supermodel. Whether your Stars will be platforms for success or an albatross pinning you down under the crushing weight of expectation is up to you. There are some 1*s where I sense generosity. Stay sharp, take feedback, focus on repeat customers, watch your prices.
The Ascent of Tresind Studio, 21 grams and BOCA.
Last year, these names (and others) stood out. Tresind Studio rises to claim its much-deserved two Michelin stars. The significance of this cannot be understated. Tresind Studio is still a young restaurant. A quick search of the guide reconfirms there are only 15 1-Star Indian restaurants IN THE WORLD and, now with Tresind Studio, there are ONLY 2 2-Star Indian restaurants in the world (but Michelin’s website still only shows Tresind Studio when I search). Chef Himanshu Saini and his team’s 10,000 Gladwellian hours come to reward them. Tresind Studio is my laminated first-choice recommendation to anyone anytime they ask me about Dubai’s best restaurant or somewhere special. Hats off to Himanshu, Vipin and the team. Words cannot describe my joy for you.
21 grams is the quintessential bib gourmand restaurant. Solid food at a reasonable price. Balkan restaurants are almost one-for-one in Dubai. 21 grams does not have a trend to lift its wings or a grandiose hotel with footfall and a marketing budget. Graft, grind and resilience turn out goat’s cheese, honey phyllo pies and sarma cabbage rolls. Both earned a local cult following. My heart poured open with joy when the place I’d loved for years no longer had a table immediately available because it was packed. PACKED. The rest of the world found what many of us already knew. My greatest satisfaction is having to wait for a table at 21 grams and watching people take photos as they look around to see what other people are ordering. Long may it stay that way.
BOCA and, specifically, sustainability champion Omar Shihab rose to receive their first Green Michelin star. Omar does what Steve Jobs used to call moving the puck to where it is going to be and not to where it has been. He’s emblematic of the sustainability movement in Dubai, and one day, statues will be built for him. I watch other restaurants pay lip service to sustainability with quiet amusement. BOCA holds itself publicly accountable and with delicious results. BOCA’s dialled things up in recent months with a star sommelier, Shiv Menon, Star Wine Listing, several guest chef appearances and a new head chef, Patricia Roig. I could not be happier for them.
Are the restaurants are properly allocated?
We could spend a lot of time here but let’s focus. Ossiano should have two stars. Gregoire Berger and his team are on par with the best two-star restaurants I’ve had the pleasure to dine in. The ingredient sourcing, the demonstrable technical skill and the storytelling exude the personality of the chef. It’s all there. Dubai’s food cognoscenti know it, his peers know it (and tell me), Himanshu said it accepting his two stars, MENA 50 Best and Gault Millau knew it. My heart raced when I saw Ossiano retained their star but it then slowed at realisation that, today, it would not collect a second. I will be at Ossiano next week for their collaboration with Jordnaer, where I look forward to dining again at a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in waiting.
I would also hear arguments that Hoseki should also have two-Michelin Stars, but I have not dined there for a year.
When I look WITHIN certain categories, I cannot describe them as peers. You cannot help but see a sliding scale. Some waited to see if certain restaurants would indeed lose their star. Ossiano, Hoseki and the newly-added Dinner by Heston and Avatara stand out to me as the strongest in the one-star group. The one-star group is a group of two halves in my experience to date. I look forward to testing that theory as I make my way around those 1 Stars I have yet to visit.
Orfali Bros stood out to me as another restaurant where I would hear arguments that it should be in the 1 Star league (especially given some of those 1 Stars). MENA 50 Best 2023’s no 1 restaurant, and local hero offers bib value, but I cannot help but wonder if they just missed the mark. At times, I sense that Teible could make a run for it.
Some other bib contenders strike me as a little pricier in reality than perhaps a bib gourmand should sustain.
Who else could be contenders for a bib? I would keep my eye on Lila Taqueria, Mohalla and, possibly, SLAB or Fusion Ceviche in years to come.
The deafening silence from absent Bibs
Others feel the same. It is hard to believe that Orfali, Reif Japanese Kushiyaki, 21 grams and others did not somehow merit an invite to the Michelin Guide. This would be a second consecutive placing for some. It was an inaugural appearance for others. Those are momentous and meaningful milestones for their own reasons. It cannot be understated. I understand the Michelin Guide does the same in other locations (e.g. Hong Kong and Macau).
I don’t care, and neither should you. “This is what we do” is the refuge of the lazy. Shunning these acknowledged award winners is disrespectful, at the very least. These are businesses, chefs and leaders that carried their teams and the public at large during a pandemic that nearly obliterated them. These are not feed in exchange for payment places. I know these restaurants. I know their teams. These are places you bring family. They are places you sit, elbows down and realise you are falling in love; they are places where you muster the courage to tell someone you love them. They are places you where you share the news that you are pregnant. They are places you mourn the loved ones for whom you can no longer share those moments there with them anymore. Owners, chefs, cooks and teams invested themselves and their resources in building what we enjoy in Dubai today. It is notable that Michelin – most pointedly with Orfali Bros and with Reif Japanese Kushiyaki – decided not to invite them to the awards despite Orfali Bros’ position in MENA 50 Best 2023 and Reif Othman was the 2022 Chef’s Choice Winner; an award voted by chefs to decide who stands out among their peers. It seems the profession and its jury are more charitable than its judges.
The point is that it is disrespectful to those chefs. It is disrespectful to their teams. It’s disrespectful to Dubai’s culinary community. It sullies their achievement. It’s disrespectful to the dining community that loves and holds them up. Do I want an award that does not want them, I ask myself.
There was plenty of room at the press conference this year, much like the year before. Hollow arguments about space constraints land with a thud. What, is Atlantis the Royal not big enough? It is probably one of those few buildings on Earth that you can see from space.
Michelin is not new, but it is new to the Middle East. If there was one thing I learned moving to this region: relationships are everything. Foster them, forge them, hold them dear. Maybe mes amis Michelin will find out for themselves.
How does this all compare vs MENA 50 Best and Gault & Millau?
MENA 50 Best does a much better job of rallying the community: whether it’s listed or unlisted restaurants, leading food voices in the community, suppliers and retailers. There is a tremendous sense of gathering and celebration. Of course, we haggle over those results too, but the conviviality it fosters is where Michelin could learn a thing or two.
Gault & Millau (if you can pronounce it) is an award people talk about once a year in certain circles once the awards are announced. The rest of the time I have to explain to people what that funny yellow plaque on the wall means. Gault & Millau faces a branding challenge but, broadly, I find myself agreeing more often than not with their scores and reviews (especially the critiques, which they seemed to tone down this year).
And, finally, might Atlantis the Royal be all you need?
Gentle whispers rose to an audible thrum: Atlantis the Royal, a hotel so new, you can practically still smell the protective plastic film on the lobby sofa. A hotel that – just to make sure it was said – hosted the Michelin Guide event, somehow also, vicariously, walked away with a 1 Star, Service Team Award, Sommelier of the Year Award and New Opening of the Year. Samantha framed this very well, as usual. Allegedly, consistency is one of the key criteria for Michelin. There’s enough in this year’s awards to really make me question that. To be clear, I enjoyed an excellent meal at Dinner by Heston only last week. Their awards are deserved. However, for the rest, my eyebrows have yet to come down.
And now, where to eat.
Michelin Guide Dubai: Reviewed Restaurants
You can read my restaurant reviews about Dubai MICHELIN awarded restaurants here:
21 grams scores ten full points for taking its name from an esoteric experiment conducted in the early 1900s to determine the weight of the human soul. In there begins the story of an Urban Balkan Bistro overlooking Dubai’s best monuments, including the Burj Al Arab and Jumeirah Beach Hotel. Standout dishes: cevapi kebabs with pickled onions, goat’s cheese, honey and thyme phyllo pie, sarma stuffed wagyu cabbage rolls, clove cherry juice, cheese borek, poached eggs pindjur and their bullet-stopping cold brew.
You can read a full review about 21 grams here.21 grams Urban Balkan Bistro, 2nd Floor, Meyan Mall, Al Thanya St, Umm Suqeim 2, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. +971 5 0841 5021. 21 grams’ website.
Two Michelin Star Restaurants
Tresind Studio
Tresind Studio quickly rose as one of Dubai’s best restaurants, constantly innovating and elevating fine dining in the city. Its international reputation grew with Chef Himanshu’s voice and perspective on contemporary Indian fine dining. The awards followed: World’s 50 Best Restaurants, MENA 50 Best Restaurants, Gault Millau toupes, and FACT Magazine Restaurant of the Year. Vipin Panwar and the team won the Art of Hospitality Award at the inaugural MENA’s 50 Best. There was no surprise that Tresind Studio won a Michelin Star in the first year (except we felt that it should of had two). Tresind Studio’s tasting menu evolves over time. Standout dishes start with their consistently strong chaat courses like the pani puri and shisho leaf (NB consistency). A crisp, sharp blossom chaat that’s a feast for the eyes. Main course highlights like the scarpetta and charred lobster tail with corn curry – all showcasing technical ability – keep us coming back. Tresind Studio remains one of my most recommended restaurants in Dubai and I cannot wait to see where this team will go and take fine dining into the future.
You can read a full review about Tresind Studio here. Tresind Studio, Nakheel Mall Rooftop East, The Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. 0588951272. Tresind Studio website.
One Michelin Star Restaurants
11 Woodfire
11 Woodfire builds on a growing global trend. A return to open-flame, woodfire cooking. Well-known and locally-loved Chef Akmal launches 11 Woodfire which, in many ways, is his most complete restaurant that I’ve dined in so far. 11 Woodfire’s crackling woodfire kitchen punches out delicious results: the Kashmiri sea bass, a wagyu beef burger with mushroom duxelles, gouda and sriracha (make sure you get the chiselled fries) as well as the notable sour fruits dessert. It is also an unlicensed restaurant demonstrating that complex wine lists make for awards. Still, 11 Woodfire is notably inconsistent between my multiple visits, which is surprising given that consistency is one of the key metrics by which Michelin judges and awards restaurants. Also, despite recent (welcomed) pricing adjustments, the pricing still stands out.
You can read a full review about 11 Woodfire here.11 Woodfire, Villa 11 75B Street, Jumeirah, Jumeirah 1, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. +97144919000. 11 Woodfire’s Website
Avatara Restaurant
Avatara eeks out of Tresind Studio’s shadow to feed Dubai a growing global trend: a vegetarian fine-dining tasting menu. A promising first menu by chef Rahul Rana. Avatara stands out in Dubai with it’s unique offering, capably prepared dishes and concept.
Read more about Avatara Restaurant here.Avatara, Second Floor, Voco Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. +971581432867. Avatara Restaurant’s Website
Ossiano
Ossiano’s seafood degustation menu seriously impresses; stretching beyond its Atlantis cohorts. Ossiano’s latest menus – together with some outstanding collaborations – solidifies Gregoire as one of Dubai’s best chefs. Ossiano’s service is superb, some of the best in Dubai. The tasting menu evolves throughout the year with changes to match the seasons from Gregoire’s native France. You can expect luxury any time of year: caviar, langoustine, turbot and more. Ingredients are a key Michelin criterion. There’s plenty of technical ability on show here (another Michelin criteria tick). Frankly, I expected two stars for Ossiano (see more below). Sommelier Danijela Tesic also won the coveted Sommelier Award and I am not surprised why. Ossiano’s service team are superb, some of the best in Dubai in my view. As you may anticipate, Ossiano is not a cheap evening so just bring your expense account.
You can read a full review about Ossiano here.Ossiano, Atlantis Dubai, The Crescent, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. +971 4 426 2626. Ossiano website.
One Green Michelin Star Restaurants
Lowe
Lowe Dubai churns out reliably delicious, flavour-packed dishes worked over fire. Inching outside Dubai’s city gates, it’s worth the journey for the simplicity and focus behind Lowe’s dishes. You cannot come here without tearing through the duvet-soft wood-fired sesame bread with burnt aubergine dip (among others). The menu changes frequently adding to the mysticism of what you’ll get this time. A restrained, nearly industrial decor coupled with knowing service leads you towards focusing on the food. There’s a lot to love at Lowe, but you could start with its reasonably-priced wine list.
You can read a full review about Lowe here.Lowe Dubai: KOA Canvas, Legends, Al Barari, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel: +97143201890. Lowe’s Website.
Teible
Teible quietly built a following in Dubai leveraging Chef Carlos’s eco-focused, farm-to-table vision to use UAE ingredients as much as possible. A seasonal menu from local UAE farmers. Already on its third season, Teible innovates with both a casual a la carte menu and a tasting menu in the evenings. The location is a little isolated so you need to make a journey to the serene Jameel Arts Centre but, once you are there, you are in for a treat. Marina water views and tranquil decor bring a sense of zen allowing the food to speak for itself. Kohlrabi and sweet potato salad in a tomato pepper sauce, near raw prawns with paratha and roasted peppers, a bright garum tartare and the small but mighty garum burger with depths of flavour. It’s casual and unsupposing. Watch Teible, I think this one is going places.
You can read a full review about Teible here.Teible Restaurant Jameel Arts Center, Ground Floor Jaddaf Waterfront, Dubai, United Arab Emirates, +971042436683. Teibe’s website.
Michelin’s Bib Gourmand’s Restaurants
3 fils
3 fils is a Dubai staple favourite restaurant facing Jumeirah Fishing Village with long lines snaking out the door. Personally, I find 3 fils distinctly average, living on a legacy it no longer sustains and certainly surpassed by superior market newcomers (such as those below).
Read more about 3 fils, Dubai here.3 fils, Shop 02, Jumeirah Fishing Harbour, 1 Al Urouba St, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. +97143334003. 3 fils’ Website.
21 grams
21 grams scores ten full points for taking its name from an esoteric experiment conducted in the early 1900s to determine the weight of the human soul. In there begins the story of an Urban Balkan Bistro overlooking Dubai’s best monuments, including the Burj Al Arab and Jumeirah Beach Hotel. Standout dishes: cevapi kebabs with pickled onions, goat’s cheese, honey and thyme phyllo pie, sarma stuffed wagyu cabbage rolls, clove cherry juice, cheese borek, poached eggs pindjur and their bullet-stopping cold brew.
You can read a full review about 21 grams here.21 grams Urban Balkan Bistro, 2nd Floor, Meyan Mall, Al Thanya St, Umm Suqeim 2, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. +971 5 0841 5021. 21 grams’ website.
Brasserie Boulud
Brasserie Boulud is the Dubai export from chef Daniel Boulud based in the frankly perplexing Sofitel Dubai The Obelisk. You see the Bib Gourmand award unfold especially during their business lunch offering. Brasserie Boulud serves award-winning French classics such as steak tartare, confit duck, steak frites and salade nicoise. Wine by carafe is available, something rare in Dubai. The decor feels a little ‘corporate’ and the location near Healthcare City means I rarely come here. However, you will be hard-pressed to find French food executed this well and this price point elsewhere in Dubai. There are definitely lesser capable French restaurants charging higher prices. You know the ones.
You can read a full review about Brasserie Boulud here.Brasserie Boulud, Sofitel Dubai The Obelisk Wafi, Sheikh Rashid Rd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. 042814020. Brasserie Boulud website.
Bait Maryam
Bait Maryam’s homely Arabic-Levantine cooking layers generous portions with affordable prices garnering Michelin Guide bib gourmand awards. It has a rustic feel sitting feet away from a car park in the residential, high-rise Jumeirah Lake Towers. Chef and owner Salam Dakkak (who named Bait Maryam after her mother) is quiet and unassuming even after Bait Maryam scored big at Dubai’s inaugural Michelin Guide taking home both a Bib Gourmand and The Welcome and Service Award. The best value choices lie in the dishes of the day such as a warmly spiced chicken freekeh or the gusty, meltingly-soft knot of lamb neck. The standout a la carte dishes are Bait Maryam’s house-style fattoush salad spiked with sumac and pomegranate molasses and their chicken sumac fatet muskhan. Cheap and cheerful is the name of the game, but discerning eaters may prefer other options.
You can read a full review about Bait Maryam here.Bait Maryam, Cluster D, Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. 042418447.
Fi’lia
Fi’lia landed and a following ensued quickly. Casual Italian dining on a nose-bleed high floor overlooking Dubai’s iconic Downtown and Business Bay skyline from a brand new perspective inside a popular hotel, SLS Dubai. The all-female kitchen marketing campaign churned followed by Chef Sara Aqbal’s compelling story and ascension as Fi’lia’s global Executive Chef. The menu is pan-Italian not focusing on one particular region but, instead, reads as list of greatest hits: lasagna, cacio e pepe, calamari fritti etc. Comes for views, selfies and the price point, but those looking for a clearer voice on Italian food may look elsewhere.
You can read a full review about Fi’lia here.Fi’lia, Level 70, SLS Dubai Hotel & Residences, Marasi Drive, Business Bay, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel: 046070737. Fi’lia SLS Dubai website.
Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori
Another Michelin Guide entry from chef Akmal where, this time, he focuses on aspects of Japanese cuisine. Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori lies inside Galleria Mall in Jumeirah serving bites (maki rolls, nigiri), light dishes like the raw scallop sashimi with pickled cucumber, crumbled nori and sea salt or more hearty bowls like the spicy prawn noodles with egg and coriander. The restaurant joins an already crowded dining scene seemingly insatiable for Japanese cuisine.
You can read a full review about Goldfish Sushi and Yakitori here.Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori, Galleria Mall, 403 Al Wasl Rd, Al Wasl, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. +97148864966. Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori’s website.
Kinoya
Kinoya delivers comfortable, casual Japanese izakaya dining pushing a Dubai supper club favourite into the big leagues. Chef Neha earned near-celebrity status in Dubai through her much-loved supper club over the years. Kinoya offers Dubai casual dining at more affordable prices (hence the Bib Gourmand award). Supple miso aubergine with bonito flakes, seared scalloped with burnt brown butter and mushrooms as well as the infamous ramen options bring people back to Kinoya.
You can read a full review about Kinoya here in FACT Magazine and here on EatGoSee. Kinoya, Floor P2, The Onyx Tower 2, The Greens, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. 045486776. Kinoya’s website.
Ninive
Ninive dresses to impress with its lush foliage, skyscraper views and Bedouin touches with tent-like touches throughout. A licensed Middle Eastern and North African restaurant that, honestly, surprised me on the bib gourmand list only because of the price point. I like Ninve. I bring guests or work colleagues here a few times a year – especially if they come to Dubai for the first time. Meaty tajines sit alongside vegetarian-friendly roasted pumpkin with spiced tomato jam and raisins. It’s deliciously sticky, lacquered and spiced. Another delicious vegetarian dish in Dubai is delivered to satisfy the most ardent carnivore. Come to Ninive, expect a good time, be impressed with the long pour of mint tea. Relax into a shisha. But, hope someone else is paying the bill.
You can read a full review about Ninive here. Ninive, Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates, +97143266105. Ninive’s website.
Orfali Bros
Orfali Bros is a compelling story of triumph for three brothers inhabiting a small space garnering local, regional and international acclaim. Come and eat for yourself. A contemporary outlook for Middle Eastern food leaning on their Syrian origins with Turkish and wider world inspirations. Corn bombs, pides, celeriac croquettes and Come to Aleppo stand out. Make sure to save room for desserts. Yes, plural. You can’t help but feel Orfali Bros will outgrow this space quickly. The menu continues to innovate with new dishes being added recently. Reservations are highly recommended.
Read more about Orfali Bros, Dubai here.Orfali Bros, D94, Wasl 51, Al Wasl Road, Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. 042592477. Orfali Bros website.
REIF Japanese Kushiyaki
Reif Othman can be credited for the rise of Japanese and Asian dining in Dubai; but few (if any) capture lightning in a bottle as well as the master. Reif Japanese Kushiyaki remains in my top five best restaurant recommendations to anyone visiting Dubai. You will find me here (or in one of his restaurants) almost every month. There is an ease to his food and the restaurant’s service that betrays the presumptions of Michelin Guides and 50 Best Lists. Still, joy in abundance is found whether its in mushroom rice clay pots or wagyu sandos. His seasonal omakase menu, The Experience by Reif Othman, is also hosted here as an intimate chef’s table.
You can read more about Reif Japanese Kushiyaki, Dubai here.Reif Japanese Kushiyaki, Dar Wasl Mall, Al Wasl Road, Al Wasl, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Reif Japanese Kushiyaki website.
The discussion we should have now is: should we aim for equality or equity between the weighting of international restaurants vs homegrown? What are the barriers to entry for homegrown talents to go up the rankings? Do local restaurants even want Michelin accolades??
Michelin's Recommended Restaurants
CE LA VI
CE LA VI is the land of the beautiful: beautiful people, beautiful restaurant, beautiful views (some of Dubai’s best views in fact), beautiful-looking food, and a favourite for some scenes in recent popular TV shows about Dubai. I find the brunch to be much better than expected and above what you’d expect vs its peers. That said, various dinings have been inconsistent but improving more recently.
Read more about CE LA VI here.CE LA VI, Tower 2, Level 54, Address Sky View Hotel, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard, Downtown Dubai, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. +971565154001 . CE LA VI’s Website
Hutong
Hutong opened just before the world plunged into a pandemic bringing one of the world’s most popular Chinese high-end chains to the Middle East in monied DIFC. The dining room is atmospheric, and the food turned out very much with an Instagram-ready presentation in mind. I am a little surprised to find Hutong Dubai on this list, but I do note this is a recommendation only.
Read more about Hutong Dubai here.Hutong, Ground Floor, Legatum Plaza, Gate Building 6, DIFC, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. +97142200868. Hutong Dubai’s Website
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Would any Michelin list be complete without at least one Robuchon entry? This listing was not surprising only because of the association between the two brands. Dubai’s outpost of L’Atelier du Joel Robuchon is high-octane, with signature black and red everywhere. Some dishes stand out, but overall, it feels more style over substance for a crowd that likes being seen in spaces.
Read more about L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon here.L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Gate Village 11 / Podium Level, Al Boursa, DIFC, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. +97142977729. L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Website
MASTI Cocktails & Cuisine
MASTI Cocktails & Cuisine is mostly known as one of the two licensed spots on the La Mer development. Michelin may focus on the food but you are well advised to focus on the drinks menu. MASTI means mixology and, on Mondays, a Gin and Jazz night that’s worth coming for if you’re a fan of live music.
Read more about MASTI Cocktails & Cuisine here.MASTI Cocktails & Cuisine, South La Mer, Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. +97180062784. MASTI Cocktails & Cuisine Website
Mimi Kakushi
Mimi Kakushi seemingly came out of nowhere. The lovechild of the La Cantine Group, guided by the hand of Reif Othman (above) brought forth this very successful venture that earned attention, awards and long reservation lists almost instantly. Asian-inspired dining with stand-out dishes like the wagyu foie gras gyozas, braised short rib and kagoshima wagyu maki rolls. Mimi Kakushi’s eye-catching design and award-winning cocktail list mean Mimi Kakushi ticks boxes like a professional all-rounder. Corporate entertainment, girls’ nights, boys’ nights, good times chasers.
Read more about Mimi Kakushi here.Mimi Kakushi, Four Seasons Dubai Jumeirah Beach, Jumeirah 2, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. +97143794811. Mimi Kakushi’s Website
Sucre, Dubai
Sucre Dubai lands after many successful years in Buenos Aires and a much-lauded expansion into London just prior to the Dubai launch. An atmospheric space with a vast wine list and a kitchen focusing on open woodfire Latin American cooking. With a lot of familiar concepts in DIFC, Sucre stands out a little but delivers on the vibey mood that DIFC loves to provide discerning diners. I found the food very consistent across multiple dinings. The business lunch should also not be overlooked.
Read more about Sucre Dubai here.Sucre Dubai, Podium Level, Gate Village 05, DIFC, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel. +97143400829. Sucre Dubai’s Website
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