Gaa, Bangkok: The Highs Signal Better Days Lie Ahead
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Gaa, Bangkok: The Highs Signal Better Days Lie Ahead
Gaa & Garima Arora's meteoric rise with its Michelin Star & Asia's 50 Best Restaurant Listing. Yet, there is clearly potential for more.
Gaa, 46 Sukhumvit 53 Alley, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. All information is true at the time of publication. Find the latest information on Restaurant Gaa's Website or call tel. +66 63 987 4747.
Gaa, 13-course tasting menu, 3200 Thai Baht ($105, €95, £82, AED390). With Wine Pairing: 3000 Thai Baht Supplemental ($100, €90, £77)
Written by Liam Collens // Find other reviews here
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
Gaa, Inside Lies Greatness
One of my greatest disappointments is never eating at El Bulli. Infamous and fabled, El Bulli is regarded as one of the best and most innovative restaurants of all the time.
Let’s talk stats: Three Michelin stars, five times the #1 restaurant the world (and once #2) and millions of reservation requests for only 8000 sittings. Bookings opened 1 day a year and sold out in moments. The restaurant opened only for 6 months per year allowing the team to bravely experiment, test and create for the other six months with focus. Countless famous chefs today, aka Bullinianos, worked at El Bulli honing their craft at the tip of the gastronomic zeitgeist.
Let’s talk stats: Three Michelin stars, five times the #1 restaurant the world (and once #2) and millions of reservation requests for only 8000 sittings. Bookings opened 1 day a year and sold out in moments. The restaurant opened only for 6 months per year allowing the team to bravely experiment, test and create for the other six months with focus. Countless famous chefs today, aka Bullinianos, worked at El Bulli honing their craft at the tip of the gastronomic zeitgeist.
All empires fall
Ferran Adriá took the helm for over two decades shuttering its doors in 2012 due to the staggering losses it incurred. Did you read that? The most desired, envied and revered restaurant of its time closed its doors because it could not make money (or so they said).
I shared a pact with a former colleague that if one of us got a golden ticket to Wonka’s magic factory that we would take the other. In 2011, he called me unexpectedly with care and sincerity to tell me gently of El Bulli’s planned closure like the unexpected death of a dearly shared friend. The closest I got to El Bulli was meeting Ferran Adriá during an evening promoting a book in London years later.
The moral of this story is to grab the opportunity to experience greatness with both hands before it’s gone.
I shared a pact with a former colleague that if one of us got a golden ticket to Wonka’s magic factory that we would take the other. In 2011, he called me unexpectedly with care and sincerity to tell me gently of El Bulli’s planned closure like the unexpected death of a dearly shared friend. The closest I got to El Bulli was meeting Ferran Adriá during an evening promoting a book in London years later.
The moral of this story is to grab the opportunity to experience greatness with both hands before it’s gone.
This ... last dish incorporates FUN ... it is unapologetic joy served in a glass and we need more of that in our lives.
The World’s Best Restaurants
A trusted food blogger and friend, Courtney, recently perused some of Bangkok’s finest restaurants and, consequently, nudged me towards Gaa noting that she did not get the chance to go personally. Courtney is an accomplished writer that runs the helm of atozaatar, which if you are not following, you are missing out. Her podcast CSRofOne is one of my favourites and you too can subscribe gratis, free and for nothing.
Miraculously I secured a table for two at Gaa during my last night in Bangkok just before boarding a flight back to Dubai.
Like the chefs at El Bulli, Garima Arora spent time honing her craft and learning at the incomparable Noma in Copenhagen. Noma topped the number one restaurant in the world list four times (currently number 2). El Bulli is the only restaurant to achieve five number-one spots; Noma is within touching distance of its glory. The commonalities do not end there. Like El Bulli, Noma also gave the world a litter of accomplished chefs who travelled far and wide for the opportunity to learn eventually returning home. Garima joins this club before being ensconced under the wing of chef Gaggan Anand’s eponymous restaurant also listed as one of the top ten best restaurants in the world and the best in Thailand. Gaggan faced Gaa until its surprising closure in August 2019.
Garima achieved the goal of one Michelin star and #16 on Asia’s Top 50 restaurants within 2 years of opening its doors. It’s a phenomenal accomplishment. She was the highest-ranked female chef in Asia as of the date of this post. Garima also won the elit™ Vodka Asia’s Best Female Chef Award 2019.
Garima Arora deserves respect and recognition.
Miraculously I secured a table for two at Gaa during my last night in Bangkok just before boarding a flight back to Dubai.
Like the chefs at El Bulli, Garima Arora spent time honing her craft and learning at the incomparable Noma in Copenhagen. Noma topped the number one restaurant in the world list four times (currently number 2). El Bulli is the only restaurant to achieve five number-one spots; Noma is within touching distance of its glory. The commonalities do not end there. Like El Bulli, Noma also gave the world a litter of accomplished chefs who travelled far and wide for the opportunity to learn eventually returning home. Garima joins this club before being ensconced under the wing of chef Gaggan Anand’s eponymous restaurant also listed as one of the top ten best restaurants in the world and the best in Thailand. Gaggan faced Gaa until its surprising closure in August 2019.
Garima achieved the goal of one Michelin star and #16 on Asia’s Top 50 restaurants within 2 years of opening its doors. It’s a phenomenal accomplishment. She was the highest-ranked female chef in Asia as of the date of this post. Garima also won the elit™ Vodka Asia’s Best Female Chef Award 2019.
Garima Arora deserves respect and recognition.
Gaa: Would I Return?
Bangkok is bursting with good food and even great food. I do want to come back to Gaa as the potential for ever greater results is there. Yet, the abundance of high-end restaurants in Bangkok tips me towards trying somewhere new.
The Michelin Guide defines two stars as “excellent cooking that is worthy of a detour”. Three stars are defined as “exceptional cuisine that is worthy of a special journey”. Let’s not get into a protracted and highfalutin debate about the difference between one, two or three stars. I doubt very much that many people actually care, and query whether Michelin stars even mean anything nowadays.
If you are in Bangkok looking for a strong fine dining option then Gaa has much to offer but no need for a detour or special journey. It is good and has room to be better. Gaa should ask the purpose of each course and whether each course is fulfilling its potential.
The Michelin Guide defines two stars as “excellent cooking that is worthy of a detour”. Three stars are defined as “exceptional cuisine that is worthy of a special journey”. Let’s not get into a protracted and highfalutin debate about the difference between one, two or three stars. I doubt very much that many people actually care, and query whether Michelin stars even mean anything nowadays.
If you are in Bangkok looking for a strong fine dining option then Gaa has much to offer but no need for a detour or special journey. It is good and has room to be better. Gaa should ask the purpose of each course and whether each course is fulfilling its potential.
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