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Geranium, Copenhagen: It Does Not Get Better Than This
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Geranium, Copenhagen: It Does Not Get Better Than This
Geranium spoils you with its sheer brilliance and class. It’s worth every penny, as dining does not get much better than this.
Geranium, Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8. Sal, 2100 København, Denmark. Geranium, 19-course tasting menu: DKK3950 (AED2060; US$560; €530, £460); wine pairing from DKK2200; juice pairings from DKK2200: DKK (AED1150; US$310; €295, £260). Information is true as of publication, but find the latest information here on Geranium’s Website or call +4569960020.
Written by Liam Collens // See more food reviews here.
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
Geranium was on our fine dining tour of Copenhagen
Betraying social convention, I just pick up the bowl and then slowly, remorselessly, lick that luxurious sauce off its glossy, fine china surface. The delectable alchemy. My brain’s synapse pops wildly like a New Year’s sky.
“We cannot take him anywhere”, sighs Pallavi, friend and unknowing babysitter. I am forever in her debt for bringing me here.
We are in Michelin-riddled Copenhagen as I am expecting a life-altering event. The kind that will render such financially ruinous whims an endangered occurrence for the foreseeable future. Yesterday, Juju’s for lunch, followed by a jaunt through Copenhagen’s city centre before hopping over to Noma for dinner (read here). Today, Pallavi and I surrender to Geranium’s Shangri-La.
Geranium’s open-plan kitchen means diners are given a clear view of the chefs preparing dishes. It makes for excellent viewing if you enjoy watching chefs pull dishes together.
“We cannot take him anywhere”, sighs Pallavi, friend and unknowing babysitter. I am forever in her debt for bringing me here.
We are in Michelin-riddled Copenhagen as I am expecting a life-altering event. The kind that will render such financially ruinous whims an endangered occurrence for the foreseeable future. Yesterday, Juju’s for lunch, followed by a jaunt through Copenhagen’s city centre before hopping over to Noma for dinner (read here). Today, Pallavi and I surrender to Geranium’s Shangri-La.
Geranium’s open-plan kitchen means diners are given a clear view of the chefs preparing dishes. It makes for excellent viewing if you enjoy watching chefs pull dishes together.
Geranium, decidedly Danish and one of the World's Best of the Best Restaurants
Geranium is an elegant refuge from the world outside. A nest atop Copenhagen’s National Football Stadium. An indoor fire exudes warmth and crackles. Modern Nordic design swaddles the room. A sea of pale, smart grey, blonde wood and panoramic park views frame the restaurant that, occasionally, beams so bright that Giulia – assistant restaurant manager and full-time juice whisperer – offers up sunglasses to wear indoors. They look marvellous.
Giulia’s sunglasses are a touch eccentric and less kitsch. These Nords aren’t known for their kitsch. They are a punctilious, practical people. Geranium is all shrewd and sober. Proper and solid. A masterclass of fundamentals draped in fun. Adult fun. No, not that kind. Grown-up fun curated for discerning diners impatient with the flippancy of dry ice smoke and mirrors.
Guests remain the central focus. The service is sharp but casual with an easy demeanour. It’s never obsequious. They know what to do but do it intuitively, sincerely and from a place of kindness. It feels like we are going to meet for drinks after their shift. Simply put, the service is impeccable. Each charms like a childhood friend. Geranium won 2018’s Art of Hospitality at the World’s 50 Best Awards and then saw out 2022 as World 50 Best’s No. 1 Restaurant. It is quite literally it is one of the “Best of the Best” Restaurants in the world.
Geranium’s front kitchen faces the restaurant; Giulia Caffiero presents Geranium’s sunglasses box; the Autumn Universe menu is presented on the table together with our first drink from the wine pairing, a champagne by the glass.
Giulia’s sunglasses are a touch eccentric and less kitsch. These Nords aren’t known for their kitsch. They are a punctilious, practical people. Geranium is all shrewd and sober. Proper and solid. A masterclass of fundamentals draped in fun. Adult fun. No, not that kind. Grown-up fun curated for discerning diners impatient with the flippancy of dry ice smoke and mirrors.
Guests remain the central focus. The service is sharp but casual with an easy demeanour. It’s never obsequious. They know what to do but do it intuitively, sincerely and from a place of kindness. It feels like we are going to meet for drinks after their shift. Simply put, the service is impeccable. Each charms like a childhood friend. Geranium won 2018’s Art of Hospitality at the World’s 50 Best Awards and then saw out 2022 as World 50 Best’s No. 1 Restaurant. It is quite literally it is one of the “Best of the Best” Restaurants in the world.
Geranium’s front kitchen faces the restaurant; Giulia Caffiero presents Geranium’s sunglasses box; the Autumn Universe menu is presented on the table together with our first drink from the wine pairing, a champagne by the glass.
It is the only time a brassica ever conjured an out-of-body experience... I almost resist finishing the dish, fearing the end.
Geranium’s menu, food, wine and juice pairings
No 1 awards surprise in some ways but, equally, seem utterly inevitable. Chef Rasmus Kofeod’s 19-course Autumn Universe tasting menu dares only insofar as his meat-free credo. Geranium cooks Nordic seafood and seasonal vegetables all prepared with finesse and aplomb. This sophisticated, comforting through line threads the whole menu. It shuns overt provocations. Geranium is palpably friendlier than Noma and feels far more like a restaurant focused on realising a brilliant diner’s experience than becoming a mission statement’s ground zero. (Is this why Geranium landed three Michelin stars before Noma?). However, I would hear arguments that Geranium plays safe at times. Yet, the menu is never – repeat, never – boring.
Tresses of pickled kohlrabi lathered in smoked cream cheese and the saline creamy burst of Ostercia caviar. It is the only time a brassica ever conjured an out-of-body experience. It’s the menu’s apotheosis. I almost resist finishing the dish, fearing the end. Rasmus’ tendresse for caviar find another home with a crispy potato waffle anointed with sour cream stained grey with bumps of Oscietra caviar.
Geranium’s kohlrabi with smoked cream cheese with Ostercia caviar and green apple; A wedge of potato waffle with sour cream made with pickled walnut leaves and bumps of Oscietra caviar.
Geranium’s sous chef, Karolina, brings dainty starters, so beautiful, as if hand chiselled by tiny resident elves. Geranium’s greatest trick is to shroud complexity as deceptive simplicity. Ornate crispy algae resemble vegetal broaches layered over salted herring and flowers. Iridescent beetroot clovers encircle a peppery horseradish sauce. More edible jewellery deserving of the Amalienborg Museum. A heap of autumn leaves stencilled from Jerusalem artichoke and blackcurrant juice conceal smoky grilled scallops bathed in brown butter and the juice of mussels and scallop roe. The plating foreshadows the crisp tingle of autumn air. The ethereal beauty of “Today’s Harvest from the Plant Kingdom” serves sympathetically prepared vegetables with a plush verdant sauce of Danish cheese that’s even richer than the Hermes-gilded couple sat next to us.
Geranium’s “Today’s Harvest from the Plant Kingdom” with a plush verdant sauce of Danish cheese.
Piotr offers the chance to restore blood to our legs with a personal tour of the private dining room, back kitchen and – importantly – sommelier Søren Ledet’s wine collection. A library of rare vintages where, like books on a shelf in a friend’s home, it winks of the host’s personality and intention. Our wine pairings throughout lunch are exceptional with chilled Auslese Rieslings and Chartogne-Taillet champagne. Geranium’s service indulges a rare moment of showmanship as flamed port tongs and a brush of cold water dramatically open a magnum of Giulia Negri Serradenari Barolo. The restaurant descends to a hush then appreciative applause fills the room. Giulia and Piotr wheel a trolley of juices for those who opted into the delightful juice pairing option. (We. We opted. Giulia is a juice savant).
We close our four-hour grazing spectacle with an immaculate dessert line-up. A palate cleansing mousse of Sotoftegaard yoghurt buttressed by frozen pine needle juice and a pine gel. Then, a leafy lattice shields a bowl of sea buckthorn, carrot, pumpkin seeds and white chocolate. Even the carrots did not know they could taste this good. A pillow of cep mushroom anointed with caramel and judiciously applied pear vinegar. Inspired. A warm potato cake spiced with nutmeg and local tykmalk (like buttermilk) is the final hug goodbye.
Geranium’s “Danish tradition” salted herring in crispy algae, dill stems & aquavit; boiled beetroot from “Birkemosegürd” with horseradish; grilled scallop, juice from scallop roe, leaves from dried black currant & Jerusalem artichoke; and sea buckthorn, carrot, pumpkin seeds & white chocolate.
I see myself returning to Geranium more often than the two other fine dining restaurants we experienced in Copenhagen. The Alchemist is phenomenal, but fewer people are prepared to eat 50 courses over 6+ hours. I would likely come here alone. Geranium cruises along where there were even young (and incredibly well-behaved) children alongside couples, friends, parents and grandparents on a sunny Saturday. I cannot wait to come back.
Geranium’s dark chocolate and Jerusalem Artichoke syrup; Potato Cake with Nutmeg and tykmalk, a buttermilk-like yoghurt.
Fine dining lovers, fans of Nordic and modern Nordic cuisine. Those who enjoy seafood menus, tasting menus and plant-rich, light dining. Those for whom excellent wine menus make or break the experience.
The best kind of pile up.
Tresses of pickled kohlrabi lathered in smoked cream cheese and the saline creamy burst of Ostercia caviar. It is the only time a brassica ever conjured an out-of-body experience. It’s the menu’s apotheosis. I almost resist finishing the dish, fearing the end. Rasmus’ tendresse for caviar find another home with a crispy potato waffle anointed with sour cream stained grey with bumps of Oscietra caviar.
Geranium’s kohlrabi with smoked cream cheese with Ostercia caviar and green apple; A wedge of potato waffle with sour cream made with pickled walnut leaves and bumps of Oscietra caviar.
Geranium’s sous chef, Karolina, brings dainty starters, so beautiful, as if hand chiselled by tiny resident elves. Geranium’s greatest trick is to shroud complexity as deceptive simplicity. Ornate crispy algae resemble vegetal broaches layered over salted herring and flowers. Iridescent beetroot clovers encircle a peppery horseradish sauce. More edible jewellery deserving of the Amalienborg Museum. A heap of autumn leaves stencilled from Jerusalem artichoke and blackcurrant juice conceal smoky grilled scallops bathed in brown butter and the juice of mussels and scallop roe. The plating foreshadows the crisp tingle of autumn air. The ethereal beauty of “Today’s Harvest from the Plant Kingdom” serves sympathetically prepared vegetables with a plush verdant sauce of Danish cheese that’s even richer than the Hermes-gilded couple sat next to us.
Geranium’s “Today’s Harvest from the Plant Kingdom” with a plush verdant sauce of Danish cheese.
Piotr offers the chance to restore blood to our legs with a personal tour of the private dining room, back kitchen and – importantly – sommelier Søren Ledet’s wine collection. A library of rare vintages where, like books on a shelf in a friend’s home, it winks of the host’s personality and intention. Our wine pairings throughout lunch are exceptional with chilled Auslese Rieslings and Chartogne-Taillet champagne. Geranium’s service indulges a rare moment of showmanship as flamed port tongs and a brush of cold water dramatically open a magnum of Giulia Negri Serradenari Barolo. The restaurant descends to a hush then appreciative applause fills the room. Giulia and Piotr wheel a trolley of juices for those who opted into the delightful juice pairing option. (We. We opted. Giulia is a juice savant).
We close our four-hour grazing spectacle with an immaculate dessert line-up. A palate cleansing mousse of Sotoftegaard yoghurt buttressed by frozen pine needle juice and a pine gel. Then, a leafy lattice shields a bowl of sea buckthorn, carrot, pumpkin seeds and white chocolate. Even the carrots did not know they could taste this good. A pillow of cep mushroom anointed with caramel and judiciously applied pear vinegar. Inspired. A warm potato cake spiced with nutmeg and local tykmalk (like buttermilk) is the final hug goodbye.
Geranium’s “Danish tradition” salted herring in crispy algae, dill stems & aquavit; boiled beetroot from “Birkemosegürd” with horseradish; grilled scallop, juice from scallop roe, leaves from dried black currant & Jerusalem artichoke; and sea buckthorn, carrot, pumpkin seeds & white chocolate.
Geranium, Would I Return
I see myself returning to Geranium more often than the two other fine dining restaurants we experienced in Copenhagen. The Alchemist is phenomenal, but fewer people are prepared to eat 50 courses over 6+ hours. I would likely come here alone. Geranium cruises along where there were even young (and incredibly well-behaved) children alongside couples, friends, parents and grandparents on a sunny Saturday. I cannot wait to come back.
Geranium’s dark chocolate and Jerusalem Artichoke syrup; Potato Cake with Nutmeg and tykmalk, a buttermilk-like yoghurt.
Geranium, Who Should Go?
Fine dining lovers, fans of Nordic and modern Nordic cuisine. Those who enjoy seafood menus, tasting menus and plant-rich, light dining. Those for whom excellent wine menus make or break the experience.
The best kind of pile up.
Geranium, Heart & Soil Wine Pairing
Wine 1: Chartogne-Taillet, Sainte Anne Brut N.V., Champagne, France
Wine 2: Littorai, B. A. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay 2019, Sonoma Coast, United States
Wine 3: Domaine Mark and Martial Angeli, La Lune 2021, Loire Valley, France
Wine 4: Giulia Negri, Serradenari Barolo 2013, Barolo, Italy
Wine 5: Heymann-Löwenstein, Stolzenberg 2011, Mosel, Germany
Wine 2: Littorai, B. A. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay 2019, Sonoma Coast, United States
Wine 3: Domaine Mark and Martial Angeli, La Lune 2021, Loire Valley, France
Wine 4: Giulia Negri, Serradenari Barolo 2013, Barolo, Italy
Wine 5: Heymann-Löwenstein, Stolzenberg 2011, Mosel, Germany
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