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Katsuya by Starck, Dubai: Brunch Review
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Katsuya by Starck: A relaxed Friday Brunch
Non-alcoholic: 350 (US$95, EUR86, £74), house beverages: 450 (US$123, EUR110, £95), and sparkling 550 (US$150, EUR135, £116)
Jumeirah Al Naseem admirably cherry-picks and curates a strong restaurant selection. Black Tap serves architecturally and arterially-challenging milkshakes and burgers all in the name of Instagram clickbait. Il Borro Tuscan is a repeated winner of Italian restaurant awards in Dubai together with its sister restaurant Alici across town. The list goes on.
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
A quick word on Dubai brunches, and me
I am sure there are several PhDs to be written about Dubai brunches and its brunch culture. Dubai brunches emulate the management trope of good, fast, cheap. You can pick two of these but all three do not exist. My extensive brunch experience in Dubai tells me that you must choose: food, booze, fun/party and/or cheap. Two out of the four is easily achievable. Party and booze find each other like star-crossed lovers. Yet good food and cheap are just like me and Batman: you will not see these things in the same room at the same time (plot twist: I am the Batman). You need to pick your priorities and live with those.
And me?
I just know who I am now and, listen, denial is not a river in Egypt. Each day, I wear leather brogue Chelsea boots to work and buy them from the same shop where I get 70% of my wardrobe. I read GQ (when I have time). I dream of buying the car that I really want and not just the one I still drive simply because the thought of laying out that kind of coin on a depreciating asset makes my knees buckle.
But trust, I still like to get lit on the weekends. Yet, I want to do it in the kind of effortlessly satisfying way that requires as close to no effort as possible. I want table service, a la carte, cooked to order and the ABCs (Anything But Chardonnay). I visibly wince at the idea – nay, threat – of lining up for buffets three people deep to decant margarita from a 7/11-style slushie dispenser. The unmitigated horror of collecting semi-edible detritus unsold during the week in (what seems almost certainly) a vain attempt by hotel restaurants to stem their losses under the guise of “house” or “sparkling” packages. Not today Satan. I have too much living to do.
But trust, I still like to get lit on the weekends. Yet, I want to do it in the kind of effortlessly satisfying way that requires as close to no effort as possible. I want table service, a la carte, cooked to order and the ABCs (Anything But Chardonnay). I visibly wince at the idea – nay, threat – of lining up for buffets three people deep to decant margarita from a 7/11-style slushie dispenser. The unmitigated horror of collecting semi-edible detritus unsold during the week in (what seems almost certainly) a vain attempt by hotel restaurants to stem their losses under the guise of “house” or “sparkling” packages. Not today Satan. I have too much living to do.
Testimonial
Katsuya by Starck: Vibes
The location is vast channelling light woods glowing under sun-drenched natural light and a central square sushi station draped in pale cotton adorned in Japanese symbols. The room is framed by windows and a partial ocean view. I recommend this section over the slate grey, modern side dining area; however, the latter is more romantic and would make for a preferred dinner date location with Mrs EatGoSee.
So what would draw me back to Katsuya?
Katsuya could stand out more by introducing some more fun without alienating its sophisticated, casual grounding. A small yakitori station for people to observe and learn about this traditional Japanese cooking method. A small flight of sake or sake-tasting for people curious about its origins and traditions (this is available at other bars in Dubai). I personally don’t enjoy sake but that’s beside the point.
Katsuya should absolutely not conduct any live performances. These to plague a number of brunches these days (waves at STK JBR).
The serenity and focus on good food is its strength; the question and challenge are whether it can reinvent that to introduce some fun. It’s the weekend after all.
Katsuya should absolutely not conduct any live performances. These to plague a number of brunches these days (waves at STK JBR).
The serenity and focus on good food is its strength; the question and challenge are whether it can reinvent that to introduce some fun. It’s the weekend after all.
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