Review: Katsuya by Starck, Dubai: Brunch Review
Katsuya by Starck: A relaxed Friday Brunch
Non-alcoholic: 350 (US$95, EUR86, £74), house beverages: 450 (US$123, EUR110, £95), and sparkling 550 (US$150, EUR135, £116)
Jumeirah Al Naseem admirably cherry-picks and curates a strong restaurant selection. Black Tap serves architecturally and arterially-challenging milkshakes and burgers all in the name of Instagram clickbait. Il Borro Tuscan is a repeated winner of Italian restaurant awards in Dubai together with its sister restaurant Alici across town. The list goes on.
A sophisticated brunch free from binge parties
Table service, a la carte with sushi and sashimi buffet
Good wine options at base package
A generous a la carte menu - it's a lot of food
Cost-wise, it may limit some to 'special occasions' only
Very quiet when we went meaning there's little atmosphere
A quick word on Dubai brunches, and me
But trust, I still like to get lit on the weekends. Yet, I want to do it in the kind of effortlessly satisfying way that requires as close to no effort as possible. I want table service, a la carte, cooked to order and the ABCs (Anything But Chardonnay). I visibly wince at the idea – nay, threat – of lining up for buffets three people deep to decant margarita from a 7/11-style slushie dispenser. The unmitigated horror of collecting semi-edible detritus unsold during the week in (what seems almost certainly) a vain attempt by hotel restaurants to stem their losses under the guise of “house” or “sparkling” packages. Not today Satan. I have too much living to do.
Katsuya by Starck: Vibes
So what would draw me back to Katsuya?
Katsuya should absolutely not conduct any live performances. These to plague a number of brunches these days (waves at STK JBR).
The serenity and focus on good food is its strength; the question and challenge are whether it can reinvent that to introduce some fun. It’s the weekend after all.