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Lido 84 x Tresind Studio, Dubai: The Year’s Best Lunch Yet
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Lido 84 x Tresind Studio, Dubai: The Year's Best Lunch Yet
Lido 84 x Tresind Studio, 14 courses without alcohol but including service and taxes: AED595. Tresind Studio, level 2, voco Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. +971588951272, tresindstudio.com. Lido 84, Corso Giuseppe Zanardelli, 196, 25083 Gardone Riviera BS, Italy, +39036520019, ristorantelido84.com.
Written by Liam Collens / See other reviews here
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
Lido 84 x Tresind Studio, coming together is easier said than done
Mrs EatGoSee and I moved in together after two years of long-distance dating. I say long distance: we both lived in London through 12 miles of triathlon-level public transport. The acquiesce of ‘I’ll come to your place tonight’ was an unparalleled act of kindness. Anyone who lives in a big city knows. Moving in feels easier, until it begins.
Visitation rights turn to proprietary rights about whose ironing board is better; yes, we do need a TV that big and how can it be that only two people have all these tea mugs?
Decanting everything you have to offer into a small space requires steely determination and an unshakeable, shared vision that together creates something better.
Step forward Lido 84 x Tresind Studio collaboration.
Tresind Studio interior decor during lunch service
Visitation rights turn to proprietary rights about whose ironing board is better; yes, we do need a TV that big and how can it be that only two people have all these tea mugs?
Decanting everything you have to offer into a small space requires steely determination and an unshakeable, shared vision that together creates something better.
Step forward Lido 84 x Tresind Studio collaboration.
Tresind Studio interior decor during lunch service
Lido 84 x Tresind Studio move in together for the weekend
I asked Dubai to work together more to realise the magic of 1+1=3. Tresind Studio delivered a duo of collaborations with Reif Othman and double-Michelin starred Ana Roš. Tresind Studio’s collaboration with Riccardo Camanini successfully folds Northern Italian sensibility into contemporary, dynamic Indian dining.
Chef Himanshu, EatGoSee, Mrs EatGoSee and Chef Riccardo Camanini
Tresind Studio, recently, collects international heavyweight chefs with aplomb. Riccardo Camanini, and his engrossing brother Giancarlo, are owners of Michelin-starred Lido 84 and #78 the World Best Restaurants. Impossibly charming Italians serving Lido 84’s dishes personally with humility and the excitement of a team fizzing with joy at the ability to cook again. The Lido 84 restaurant is closed at the hand of COVID19, like many restaurants in Europe. Lido 84 aims to re-open in mid-February.
Dubai presents a sandbox for which visitors can come to play at a time when opportunities for restaurants seem in short supply.
Chef Himanshu, EatGoSee, Mrs EatGoSee and Chef Riccardo Camanini
Tresind Studio, recently, collects international heavyweight chefs with aplomb. Riccardo Camanini, and his engrossing brother Giancarlo, are owners of Michelin-starred Lido 84 and #78 the World Best Restaurants. Impossibly charming Italians serving Lido 84’s dishes personally with humility and the excitement of a team fizzing with joy at the ability to cook again. The Lido 84 restaurant is closed at the hand of COVID19, like many restaurants in Europe. Lido 84 aims to re-open in mid-February.
Dubai presents a sandbox for which visitors can come to play at a time when opportunities for restaurants seem in short supply.
Cork-like yeast shards, channeling toasty sourdough notes, are pebbled over spaghettoni strands drenched in silky butter. It is magnificently understated and relegates my recent pasta-making video to the foothills of amateur hour.
Lido 84 x Tresind Studio’s menu, courses and food
14 courses served by four talented hands (plus others) structured under “bites”, small plates and, finally, dessert. This many courses judiciously stays light trending towards seafood and vegetable-based dishes.
There is a harmonious, selfless continuity through courses, from start to finish. The Lido 84 x Tresind Studio collaboration plays as a team as the chefs graciously pass the baton between plates. Some previous collabs could have achieved greater cohesion and flow by staying invested in the overall arch of the menu. It is tough – you want to soar but you need to soar together.
Lido 84’s Riccardo Camanini completes a reverse Marco Polo bringing exclusively Italian ingredients to the (Middle) East from its picturesque Lake Garda. The raw cuttlefish, smoked eel butter and Jerusalem artichoke is a sublime highlight replicating silky sushi rice through nano cuttlefish cubes glazed with the soft, luxuriant purr of smoked eel butter under a duvet of Jerusalem artichoke. The fried perch and cod tripe couples a drier lake perch with gloriously lardaceous cod belly gluttonously fried then amplified with bergamot.
Lido 84’s raw cuttlefish (first); Focaccina with fried perch, cod tripe, honey and bergamont
Lido 84’s spaghettoni with butter and dried yeast reimagines the Italian childhood experience of spaghetti with butter while showing us that simplification requires focus and a meticulous understanding that an ingredient has a purpose. Cork-like yeast shards, channelling toasty sourdough notes, are pebbled over spaghettoni strands drenched in silky butter. It is magnificently understated and relegates my recent pasta-making video to the foothills of amateur hour.
Lido 84’s spaghettoni with butter and dried yeast (first); Tresind Studio’s Basil Spritz cocktail
The vegetable-forward dishes sing, enabling Mrs EatGoSee and I to forge through the menu. Dubai continually delivers excellent vegetarian dishes who’s impression outlasts their animal counterparts. The highlight is Lido 84’s 400-degree eggplant parmigiano glazed with anchovy, a bright tomato sauce and an umami-steeped parmesan emulsion. Tresind Studio reliably serves robust vegetable dishes like the charcoal-grilled oyster mushroom skewered with curry tree twigs in a wild green herb marinade. The most ardent animal flesh glutton will face an existential reckoning. Tresind Studio plays to its strengths with two chaat courses include the remodeled Caprese pani puri and a spice-laced chaat gelato sandwich with pops of pomegranate seeds and mint washed down with a coriander water chaser.
Lido 84’s 400 degree eggplant parmigiana (first); Tresind Studio’s grilled oyster mushroom with green herb marinade (second)
Tresind Studio’s chaat gelato (third)
I applaud Tresind Studio for visibly stepping out of its comfort zone with chaat gelatos using the occasion of a one-off collab menu to stretch its talents. No dish does this more than the dumpling-like sweet onion tortellini submerged into a rust puddle of spoon-lickingly good buttermilk curry. Tresind Studio should find a home for this dish on Season Six (whenever that is coming, Chef Himanshu…). Mrs EatGoSee appreciated the cooling corn ice cream like an ointment to the spicier burn of its saag neighbour devoured off a buttery plank of duck paratha.
Tresind Studio’s Sweet Onion Tortellini (first); Tresind Studio’s Caprese Pani Puri
Meat lovers may want more from Tresind Studio’s signature lamb alchemy. The lamb and coconut stew with curry leaf oil is the only meat course out of 14 courses aside from the aforementioned duck paratha.
Tresind Studio’s lamb and coconut curry (first); Lido 84’s fusilli, pistachio, marinada tomatoes and basil
Too many chefs take themselves far too seriously curling into a caricature of themselves in the fastidious journey towards perfection. Lido 84 x Tresind Studio’s collaboration shows glimmers of personality and charm with an appearance by Shaun the Sheep nursing our coconut broth. The final course, the Indian Wedding Ceremony, playfully recreates the romance and beauty of an Indian wedding. The concept is charming and a course that should be developed further for a future Season.
Tresind Studio’s Indian Wedding Ceremony (first); Tresind Studio’s homage to Shaun the Sheep from Wallace and Gromitr
Lido 84 and Tresind Studio are strong roommates. This collaboration will be hard for Tresind Studio to beat and I applaud the team for following up on the Hisa Franko collaboration with Ana Roš so quickly to this level. As Mrs EatGoSee and I waddle out, I look forward to seeing what Tresind Studio will deliver next. Equally, I am impatient to get to Lido 84 as soon as the world allows.
A mere 22 days into 2021 came the brightest spot in the year thus far. Safe returns for Lido 84’s team back to Lake Garda where I cannot wait to go to the restaurant to follow up on this experience.
There is a harmonious, selfless continuity through courses, from start to finish. The Lido 84 x Tresind Studio collaboration plays as a team as the chefs graciously pass the baton between plates. Some previous collabs could have achieved greater cohesion and flow by staying invested in the overall arch of the menu. It is tough – you want to soar but you need to soar together.
Lido 84’s Riccardo Camanini completes a reverse Marco Polo bringing exclusively Italian ingredients to the (Middle) East from its picturesque Lake Garda. The raw cuttlefish, smoked eel butter and Jerusalem artichoke is a sublime highlight replicating silky sushi rice through nano cuttlefish cubes glazed with the soft, luxuriant purr of smoked eel butter under a duvet of Jerusalem artichoke. The fried perch and cod tripe couples a drier lake perch with gloriously lardaceous cod belly gluttonously fried then amplified with bergamot.
Lido 84’s raw cuttlefish (first); Focaccina with fried perch, cod tripe, honey and bergamont
Lido 84’s spaghettoni with butter and dried yeast reimagines the Italian childhood experience of spaghetti with butter while showing us that simplification requires focus and a meticulous understanding that an ingredient has a purpose. Cork-like yeast shards, channelling toasty sourdough notes, are pebbled over spaghettoni strands drenched in silky butter. It is magnificently understated and relegates my recent pasta-making video to the foothills of amateur hour.
Lido 84’s spaghettoni with butter and dried yeast (first); Tresind Studio’s Basil Spritz cocktail
The vegetable-forward dishes sing, enabling Mrs EatGoSee and I to forge through the menu. Dubai continually delivers excellent vegetarian dishes who’s impression outlasts their animal counterparts. The highlight is Lido 84’s 400-degree eggplant parmigiano glazed with anchovy, a bright tomato sauce and an umami-steeped parmesan emulsion. Tresind Studio reliably serves robust vegetable dishes like the charcoal-grilled oyster mushroom skewered with curry tree twigs in a wild green herb marinade. The most ardent animal flesh glutton will face an existential reckoning. Tresind Studio plays to its strengths with two chaat courses include the remodeled Caprese pani puri and a spice-laced chaat gelato sandwich with pops of pomegranate seeds and mint washed down with a coriander water chaser.
Lido 84’s 400 degree eggplant parmigiana (first); Tresind Studio’s grilled oyster mushroom with green herb marinade (second)
Tresind Studio’s chaat gelato (third)
I applaud Tresind Studio for visibly stepping out of its comfort zone with chaat gelatos using the occasion of a one-off collab menu to stretch its talents. No dish does this more than the dumpling-like sweet onion tortellini submerged into a rust puddle of spoon-lickingly good buttermilk curry. Tresind Studio should find a home for this dish on Season Six (whenever that is coming, Chef Himanshu…). Mrs EatGoSee appreciated the cooling corn ice cream like an ointment to the spicier burn of its saag neighbour devoured off a buttery plank of duck paratha.
Tresind Studio’s Sweet Onion Tortellini (first); Tresind Studio’s Caprese Pani Puri
Meat lovers may want more from Tresind Studio’s signature lamb alchemy. The lamb and coconut stew with curry leaf oil is the only meat course out of 14 courses aside from the aforementioned duck paratha.
Tresind Studio’s lamb and coconut curry (first); Lido 84’s fusilli, pistachio, marinada tomatoes and basil
Lido 84 x Tresind Studio remains still playful and charismatic
Too many chefs take themselves far too seriously curling into a caricature of themselves in the fastidious journey towards perfection. Lido 84 x Tresind Studio’s collaboration shows glimmers of personality and charm with an appearance by Shaun the Sheep nursing our coconut broth. The final course, the Indian Wedding Ceremony, playfully recreates the romance and beauty of an Indian wedding. The concept is charming and a course that should be developed further for a future Season.
Tresind Studio’s Indian Wedding Ceremony (first); Tresind Studio’s homage to Shaun the Sheep from Wallace and Gromitr
Lido 84 and Tresind Studio are strong roommates. This collaboration will be hard for Tresind Studio to beat and I applaud the team for following up on the Hisa Franko collaboration with Ana Roš so quickly to this level. As Mrs EatGoSee and I waddle out, I look forward to seeing what Tresind Studio will deliver next. Equally, I am impatient to get to Lido 84 as soon as the world allows.
A mere 22 days into 2021 came the brightest spot in the year thus far. Safe returns for Lido 84’s team back to Lake Garda where I cannot wait to go to the restaurant to follow up on this experience.
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