OAK Restaurant, Bath: Vegetarian Bliss That Every City Deserves

OAK’s short eclectic wine is available by the glass, carafe, and bottle, with all options coming from the UK or Europe split between sparkling, white, rose, skin contact and red. The 2022 Staffelter Hof Riesling from the Mosel in Germany becomes my weapon of choice and I recommend the same (£7.60), although a fig leaf bellini does tempt me (£10.50).

A plate of new potatoes, cooked just and full of earthy pungency that comes with not long being out the ground, also sings of a smoky almond cream – almost like marzipan without the sweetness – then jewelled with chives and radish (£8.80). It looks simple enough to make at home, and yet I doubt myself with every bite. Fermented cashew croquettes billow with steam when prised open (£8.75). There’s crunch and squidgy centre where, being honest, I would hear arguments the croquette borders on stodgy, but this is all overlooked as the aioli roars through, made by the hand of a chef that does not believe in modesty. All aioli should go hard or go home in my books.

Our autumnal–looking beetroot and chickpeas arrive luxuriating in a rich, smoked pine nut butter with an unmistakable pelt of black pepper and grassy parsley (£9.95). I slather the beetroot and chickpeas together with the smoky almond cream of the potatoes as if they were meant to be. Delicious. Our slender courgettes spears are tender, but retain their toothsomeness, dribbled with a subdued salsa verde where a chimichurri could step in instead. Still, the green freshness of courgettes in season shines through.

A slab of egg custard tart dusted with freshly grated nutmeg and a side of cooling gooseberry sorbet made (£8.75) and a cherry ice cream stained with fig leaf oil, and a side of crushed almonds (£8) are quietly devoured with almost no sharing. Almost. I did not instantly take to the fig leaf oil, but slowly, it grows on me with its slight vegetal flavour that compliments the almonds’ warm nuttiness. Who doesn’t love ice cream on a warm summer’s day?



OAK’s dishes: new potatoes with smoked almond cream; fermented cashew croquettes with aioli; roasted beetroot and chickpeas with a smoked pine nut butter and pan-fried courgettes with aji blanco and salsa verde.

OAK Restaurant, Would I Return?

Of the four Michelin Green Star restaurants visited during a two-week sojourn around Britain, it was in the top two, together with Osip in Bruton. Both restaurants feel spiritually compatible, although divergent in ambition. OAK is a must-visit in Bath if you can push passed the Sally Lunn throngs.



OAK Restaurant’s dishes: Egg Custard Tart with Gooseberry Sorbet; Cherry Ice Cream with crushed almonds and fig leaf oil; the remains of some excellent savoury dishes as empty plates are compliments to the chef; a glass of Staffelter Hot Riesling with a spoon of new potatoes from earlier.

OAK Restaurant, Who Should Come Here?

For those unconvinced of the satisfaction that vegetarian or vegan cooking can provide, OAK certainly fits the brief for lunch and shuns the pretentiousness that can plague restaurants with similar concepts. I just enjoyed it, and I have a feeling you would too. Bath residents, passing through visitors, budget-conscious eaters, vegetarians, vegans, Michelin Green Star collectors and someone wanting to do a health.



Views looking out onto the North Parade outside OAK Restaurant; the fermented cashew croquettes with aioli.



OAK Restaurant’s menu including wine and beers; our receipt for lunch and the rear back of OAK restaurant overlooking the outside North Parade with its vegetable display.