Orfali Bros Bistro, Dubai’s Best New Bistro Was Almost Perfect
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Orfali Bros Bistro: Dubai’s Best New Bistro Was Almost Perfect
Orfali Bros Bistro Restaurant, six small plates, one infused water, a mocktail and macchiato: 410 dhs excluding service (US$111, €94, £80). D94, Wasl 51, Al Wasl Road, Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Starters: 19-99dhs, small plates hot or cold: 37-120dhs, pide: 59-90dhs.
Written by Liam Collens // See other food reviews here
Orfali Bros Bistro's new restaurant popularity rages on, yet the good food and amiable service all came to an abrupt end.
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
Orfali Bros Bistro: Dubai’s Best New Bistro Was Almost Perfect
Look, let’s just start at the end, shall we? It was all going so very well. A resplendent afternoon lunching alone inside a soaring shaft of a dining room nibbling on bite-size bits of loveliness. The service stands out, until it sticks its neck out.
I need to leave. Well, I am not explicitly asked, yet, but you see at least 70% of all communication is non-verbal. The waitress’s writhing discomfort as she tells me the next booking is 30 minutes early projects there is a problem, and evidently, the problem is mine.
I am what is known as a walk-in. I do not have a booking. I chanced my luck on this balmy Saturday lunchtime to land a table at Orfali Bros. This brand new bistro in Wasl 51 is the talk of the town. The quiet, growing thrum of the good old fashioned word of mouth. It rises to an enthusiastic chorus that Orfali Bros Bistro, a mere hop and skip away from Lana Lusa, serves mighty fine grub.
Orfali Bros dining room is quite small but allows for uninterrupted views of the open, quiet kitchen
I need to leave. Well, I am not explicitly asked, yet, but you see at least 70% of all communication is non-verbal. The waitress’s writhing discomfort as she tells me the next booking is 30 minutes early projects there is a problem, and evidently, the problem is mine.
I am what is known as a walk-in. I do not have a booking. I chanced my luck on this balmy Saturday lunchtime to land a table at Orfali Bros. This brand new bistro in Wasl 51 is the talk of the town. The quiet, growing thrum of the good old fashioned word of mouth. It rises to an enthusiastic chorus that Orfali Bros Bistro, a mere hop and skip away from Lana Lusa, serves mighty fine grub.
Orfali Bros dining room is quite small but allows for uninterrupted views of the open, quiet kitchen
Orfali Bros Bistro’s menu rings of goodness
So let’s talk about Orfali Bros’s food. A mishmash of small plates that make up a strong menu. An assembly of culinary Avengers laid out on an A5 menu each with a unique proposition. It reminds me of Slab and the late Kizmet in Dubai Opera before shuttering its doors. Be assured these are compliments.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s focused menu is a welcomed departure from the usual diatribe in Dubai
Some Asian-Middle Eastern nods such as miso tahini salmon with yuzu (90 dhs) and the shish barak a la gyoza of wagyu beef dumplings with black yoghurt (65 dhs). A burger appears, as if by protocol, with Monterey Jack cheese, mushrooms and shiitake mayo (75 dhs). The Turkish pide section resembles a United Colours of Benetton campaign drawing inspiration from Italy, the Middle East and Asia.
My only quibble at this stage as it would be nice if the vegetarian items were explicitly indicated as such. Otherwise, bravo to a short, sharp menu in Dubai.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s focused menu is a welcomed departure from the usual diatribe in Dubai
Some Asian-Middle Eastern nods such as miso tahini salmon with yuzu (90 dhs) and the shish barak a la gyoza of wagyu beef dumplings with black yoghurt (65 dhs). A burger appears, as if by protocol, with Monterey Jack cheese, mushrooms and shiitake mayo (75 dhs). The Turkish pide section resembles a United Colours of Benetton campaign drawing inspiration from Italy, the Middle East and Asia.
My only quibble at this stage as it would be nice if the vegetarian items were explicitly indicated as such. Otherwise, bravo to a short, sharp menu in Dubai.
As I said, Orfali Bros Bistro was almost perfect. Prods and quibbles about kale in pomelo salads pales in comparison to the beef arriving with a side of dark clouds.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s food
Orfali Bros food is imaginative and mostly unrestrained. The kitchen shuns most Dubai trappings (cough, gold, burrata) and prioritises quality over trendiness. There are niggles with some plates. The dish pricing raises eyebrows positively and negatively. Still, Orfali Bros makes light work of dishes that fancier restaurants get wrong.
The corn bomb is precise and impactful (get it?). A feather-light grating of umami-rich, 36-month aged Parmesan imparts nuttiness to a rush of sweet corn cream (28 dhs). The resilient tortilla chip snaps adding much-needed texture. This is a very strong start. The golf ball-sized OB Croquette laced with celeriac is swaddled in truffle mayo (19 dhs). A stronger Comte note would bolster this croquette; the truffle is slightly overplayed, Bros.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s corn bomb certainly makes an impact at a modest price
Orfali Bros Bistro’s OB croquette is textbook smooth but the truffle overtakes the comte and celeriac, shame.
A sprightly pomelo salad rushes with an assault of aromatics in the best way (57 dhs). Lemongrass, calamansi, basil and chilli all play a starring role supported with salted peanuts, tomatoes and a scattering of kale; the latter an extraneous Californication. The Come With Me To Aleppo features a trio of gamey, tender wagyu tenderloin lollipops topped with sour cherries and crunchy pine nuts (95 dhs). I enjoy these lollipops the more I eat them and, like that, they are gone.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s unconventional pomelo salad is a rich aromatic salad and a healthy menu addition; the kale is superfluous.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s Come To Me Aleppo grows on your slowly with gamey wagyu tenderloin and sour cherries.
As I said, Orfali Bros Bistro was almost perfect. Prods and quibbles about kale in pomelo salads pale in comparison to the beef arriving with a side of dark clouds.
No one should be asked to leave a table because the next booking is 30 minutes early. This is a them problem, not a me problem.
My order of smokey umami prawns in tomato dashi and garlic looks beautiful, but I leave most of it (85 dhs). The main issue here is the booking situation.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s drinks menus highlighted the restaurant is unlicensed (first); Orfali Bros Bistro Umami Prawns were bolshy but briefly experienced
Orfali Bros’ service is informed, engaged and I fully appreciate the lack of upselling. Still, there was a serious problem with honouring table times, regardless of being a walk-in. It is not my issue if a reserved table arrives 30 minutes early. That is their issue. We agreed that I had one hour at the table.
Some restaurants deliver the cheque ten minutes early. Fine, I hate this lukewarm act of hostility, but we know the score. You need to turntables. You set the rules. We shake on it, or bump fists or tap elbows, whatever COVID rules allow. Yet, if we agree I have an hour – as we did Orfali Bros before walking to my eject seat, I mean table for one – then I expect the full hour. Diners should reasonably expect to enjoy the entire agreed time. The restaurant should honour it. Orfali Bros should manage the early customer, not eject one with half a sourdough bun in its mouth.
My waitress offers to pack my half-eaten prawn remains but I walk towards the door in a stunned stupor. I would show you a photo of a sublime banana chocolate dessert but why bother when I ate it in the driver’s seat of my car in an underground car park.
People who enjoy small plates or tasting menu-style dining. Jumeirah residents. Anyone who enjoys the element of surprise.
The corn bomb is precise and impactful (get it?). A feather-light grating of umami-rich, 36-month aged Parmesan imparts nuttiness to a rush of sweet corn cream (28 dhs). The resilient tortilla chip snaps adding much-needed texture. This is a very strong start. The golf ball-sized OB Croquette laced with celeriac is swaddled in truffle mayo (19 dhs). A stronger Comte note would bolster this croquette; the truffle is slightly overplayed, Bros.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s corn bomb certainly makes an impact at a modest price
Orfali Bros Bistro’s OB croquette is textbook smooth but the truffle overtakes the comte and celeriac, shame.
A sprightly pomelo salad rushes with an assault of aromatics in the best way (57 dhs). Lemongrass, calamansi, basil and chilli all play a starring role supported with salted peanuts, tomatoes and a scattering of kale; the latter an extraneous Californication. The Come With Me To Aleppo features a trio of gamey, tender wagyu tenderloin lollipops topped with sour cherries and crunchy pine nuts (95 dhs). I enjoy these lollipops the more I eat them and, like that, they are gone.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s unconventional pomelo salad is a rich aromatic salad and a healthy menu addition; the kale is superfluous.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s Come To Me Aleppo grows on your slowly with gamey wagyu tenderloin and sour cherries.
Would I Return to Orfali Bros?
As I said, Orfali Bros Bistro was almost perfect. Prods and quibbles about kale in pomelo salads pale in comparison to the beef arriving with a side of dark clouds.
No one should be asked to leave a table because the next booking is 30 minutes early. This is a them problem, not a me problem.
My order of smokey umami prawns in tomato dashi and garlic looks beautiful, but I leave most of it (85 dhs). The main issue here is the booking situation.
Orfali Bros Bistro’s drinks menus highlighted the restaurant is unlicensed (first); Orfali Bros Bistro Umami Prawns were bolshy but briefly experienced
Orfali Bros’ service is informed, engaged and I fully appreciate the lack of upselling. Still, there was a serious problem with honouring table times, regardless of being a walk-in. It is not my issue if a reserved table arrives 30 minutes early. That is their issue. We agreed that I had one hour at the table.
Some restaurants deliver the cheque ten minutes early. Fine, I hate this lukewarm act of hostility, but we know the score. You need to turntables. You set the rules. We shake on it, or bump fists or tap elbows, whatever COVID rules allow. Yet, if we agree I have an hour – as we did Orfali Bros before walking to my eject seat, I mean table for one – then I expect the full hour. Diners should reasonably expect to enjoy the entire agreed time. The restaurant should honour it. Orfali Bros should manage the early customer, not eject one with half a sourdough bun in its mouth.
My waitress offers to pack my half-eaten prawn remains but I walk towards the door in a stunned stupor. I would show you a photo of a sublime banana chocolate dessert but why bother when I ate it in the driver’s seat of my car in an underground car park.
Who Should Go To Orfali Bros?
People who enjoy small plates or tasting menu-style dining. Jumeirah residents. Anyone who enjoys the element of surprise.
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