Review: L’Orto, Bahrain: Susy Massetti Shines Brightly

L’Orto’s self-described Tuscan menu also weaves in Northern Italy – perhaps the settled compromise between Milanese Susy and her Tuscan husband. Some areas look pan-Italian, but L’Orto’s choices are less cliched: vitello tonnato (BD9), beef tartare (BD11), Tuscan black truffle tagliarini (BD14), ravioli stuffed burrata (BD13), Fred Flinstone-like 1kg Tuscan Fiorentina steaks (BD62) and veal chops with mushroom-veal jus (BD28). A second seasonal menu becomes the focus of my attention. L’Orto means “vegetable garden”: a hint as Susy Massetti sources much of L’Orto’s produce from her farm twenty minutes away. Consequently, the seasonal menu calls me: apple and endive salad swaddled in hazelnut and pecorino dressing (BD7.5) or slow braised beef cheeks with cauliflower puree (BD30).

Our starters of arancini di riso and culurgiones arrive. Bad arancini are stodgy golf balls, but L’Orto makes light work of arancini: browned, crispy, collapsing coating contrasts with an oozy centre – perhaps stuffed with mushrooms and cheese – each shingled with black truffle on a truffle aioli (BD9 for five). The arancini are street food parcels that did well and moved into a good neighbourhood. My culurgiones are rarely seen on menus in Italy so I leap at the chance. Three plump stuffed culurgiones are a substantial starter (BD9). The culurgiones signature pleating shimmers in a pool of sage butter dotted by roasted hazelnuts creating a rewarding crunch. These culurgiones will likely be my favourite pasta dish this year. Inspired, I tried to make culurgiones when I returned to Dubai. Humbled, let’s just say those photos will not see the light of day, but my determination to recreate the magic lives on.


L’Orto’s starters of arancini di riso made with truffle and truffle aioli and stuffed culurgiones with hazelnuts, sage and lemon butter.

As plates are taken away, I debate whether to order wine by the glass from the Coravin menu, especially a few Barolos. I resist as the pricing is a little unclear and, perhaps, a glass starts at BD75? It’s even not clear to me now.


L’Orto offers an extensive wine menu that offers wine by the bottle as well as by the glass including by Coravin-siphoned glass.

L’Orto seems destined to always be busy. An al fresco dining area twinkles romantically under mature olive trees where, looking around, doe-eyed couples coo as, luck has it, L’Orto’s outdoor terrace is also air-conditioned. Single people relax; there’s plenty of space for friendly get-togethers in large groups, solo dining or groups of four. Indoor seating feels slightly more formal for those looking for more special occasions. You want to sit outside: day, night, winter or summer.


L’Orto’s two dining areas are modern, tasteful and slightly juxtapositioned as the indoor decor feels slightly more formal than the al fresco, air-conditioned outside dining.

Distracted from looking around, Mrs Collens’ fettuccine bolognese arrives (BD12). Light, pasta blushing with homemade ragu speckled with the tell-tale threads of slow-cooking with beef fillet vs gnarly ground mince. (I also make ragu like this at home with lamb, veal and/or rabbit, if I can find it). My whole sliver sea bream is placed on the table (BD18). Pearly petals of judiciously-cooked fish peels away from the skin. Fresh herbs and the gentle perfume of anise rises from softened, confit and caramelised fennel bulbs. A generous crush on a roasted lemon wedge mingles sweetness and acidity. There’s plenty of fish for one person; perhaps two people with L’Orto’s confit potatoes or heaped crispy courgettes (BD 4). It’s a testament to why so often less is more when applying good ingredients with care. Sadly, I find myself pulling the occasional clusters of small fish bones from my mouth. A little more attention to the filleting would tip it from nearly great to arguably perfect.

For dessert, we order a duo of hazelnut and Madagascan vanilla gelato (BD5). Perfectly serviceable but Susy, perhaps detecting weakness or regret, sends us home with the Bahraini tart made of the creamiest trinj curd, a Bahraini lemon (BD 5), after a full restaurant tour which includes a sneak look at Blu at L’Orto, which is the sort of place I could sink Amaro until I lose the feeling in my toes.



L’Orto’s light but generously-portions fettuccini bolognese; sea bream with confit & caramelised fennel with herbs; hazelnut and vanilla gelato and a photo of L’Orto’s outside terrace next to the olive tree.