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Row on 45, Dubai: Jason Atherton’s Audacious Fine Dining Play
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Row on 45, Dubai: Jason Atherton’s Audacious Fine Dining Play
ROW on 45 is Jason Atherton’s fine-dining tour de force Dubai return, but there’s work to be done and - WOW - that pricing.
Written by Liam Collens // Find other reviews here. Liam was invited to Row on 45 as a guest.
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
Row on 45, An Alice in Wonderland Dine Around
Row on 45 completes Jason Atherton’s Dubai re-brand and slow coup on Grovesnor House. City Social, 7 Tales, and Jazz on City Social opened this year. Jason snipped ties with Marina Social (now shuttered) and moved in with his new bae.
Row on 45 is more audacious, but diners should ask, with its named chef, Grovesnor House Dubai Marina location and a dinner price tag to match, when will I come to Row on 45? It’s not everyday dining. It’s the stuff of special occasions, whatever those may be. But, Dubai is arguably saturated with fancy dining spots and now littered with a constellation of Michelin stars. Think Ossiano, think Tresind Studio, and what about Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Dubai? I’ve been to all three, and we’ll get to this later. More big names are coming shortly, like Anne-Sophie Pic and Dabiz Muñoz.
Row on 45 perches on Grosvenor House’s forty-fifth floor (see what they did there?), treating diners to 16 fastidiously-designed courses in a ‘dine around’ concept that hops between three spacious rooms. It’s less work than it sounds, and you’ll want time to check out the decor.
Row on 45’s decor answers the question: Where does the Rabbit in Alice in Wonderland go on his nights off? It’s Dubai maximalism: the new-made-to-look old pastiche entertains, impresses and nods with hints of Jason Atherton’s very accomplished career. The reception room leans on a bit of art deco, a bit of old-world charm and, of course, the Dubai Marina skyline. Courtney Brandt rightly notes the space settles the diner after the maelstrom that is Dubai traffic these days. You’ll find a miniature Jason Atherton-nodding doll surreptitiously plonked on the library shelves near old Michelin Guides. Perhaps a signal of Row’s ambitions (if not intentions)?
Row on 45’s maximalist decor with art deco influence but a lot of British eclectic quirk.
Row on 45 is more audacious, but diners should ask, with its named chef, Grovesnor House Dubai Marina location and a dinner price tag to match, when will I come to Row on 45? It’s not everyday dining. It’s the stuff of special occasions, whatever those may be. But, Dubai is arguably saturated with fancy dining spots and now littered with a constellation of Michelin stars. Think Ossiano, think Tresind Studio, and what about Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Dubai? I’ve been to all three, and we’ll get to this later. More big names are coming shortly, like Anne-Sophie Pic and Dabiz Muñoz.
Row on 45 perches on Grosvenor House’s forty-fifth floor (see what they did there?), treating diners to 16 fastidiously-designed courses in a ‘dine around’ concept that hops between three spacious rooms. It’s less work than it sounds, and you’ll want time to check out the decor.
Row on 45’s decor answers the question: Where does the Rabbit in Alice in Wonderland go on his nights off? It’s Dubai maximalism: the new-made-to-look old pastiche entertains, impresses and nods with hints of Jason Atherton’s very accomplished career. The reception room leans on a bit of art deco, a bit of old-world charm and, of course, the Dubai Marina skyline. Courtney Brandt rightly notes the space settles the diner after the maelstrom that is Dubai traffic these days. You’ll find a miniature Jason Atherton-nodding doll surreptitiously plonked on the library shelves near old Michelin Guides. Perhaps a signal of Row’s ambitions (if not intentions)?
Row on 45’s maximalist decor with art deco influence but a lot of British eclectic quirk.
Row on 45 by Jason Atherton: the Food, the Wine and the Menu
16-course tasting menu of – let’s call it – British meets Modern European food made with a few Japanese-sourced ingredients is slowly ingested over 3.5 hours with periodic and mild bouts of cardio walking between rooms. It is manageable. It is more comfortable than expected. The service team is amenable to 10-minute breaks for mercy in those moments when you need a breather or, maybe, you just fancy checking out one of Dubai’s most beautiful bathrooms. Try the Santal Austral cologne. I did. Twice. Rest easy knowing you have the table for the night where, unlike other restaurants, the maître d will clasp hands, make eye contact and enthusiastically ask if you had a wonderful evening… as your first signal that the restaurant needs the table back in order to make a profit.
Row on 45’s menu is good, it’s accomplished, and there’s clear technical talent in the kitchen. Amidst all the culinary wizardry, there are genuine moments of sheer joy where comfort food dances between nostalgia and bliss causing our riotous table slip into delicious silence.
The pungent Cheese and Onion punches with an umami-rich, 36-month-old Parmesan foam that is softer than a marshmallow dotted with a hefty nose of 25-year-old balsamic vinegar. The Brioche, with more laminated rings than a 100-year-old tree, is lacquered in a dark glaze of Hatta Mountain honey and date vinegar. It cracks apart to reveal a pillow-soft carb centre to which you slather with roasted chicken fat butter and piped cep jam – so lardaceously luxurious – you could rub it under your eyes twice daily to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. The brioche’s only disappointment is when it finishes. I thumb the tablecloth for brioche debris and anxiously eyeball the crumbs dutifully scrapped away by the service, hoping they will tilt my head back, tip the crumbs into my mouth, and then rub my head to make it all better. A Noirmoutier Potato is braised in kombu stock, then blanketed under a light foam, chive oil and Ostercia caviar. A Miso Sesame dessert oscillates between sweet and savoury with its miso caramel, Valhrona chocolate and rewarding crunch.
We enjoy all those courses in the main dining where personalised menus await us. The antiseptic, somewhat Kubrickian kitchen lies inside the dining room akin to a British country house poised before the vast floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Dubai Marina. Trust me when I say you want the nook of the window seats. Persist, you must.
Row on 45’s dishes: “Cheese & Onion” with aged parmesan and balsamic vinegar; Noirmoutier Potato with chive oil and caviar; Miso Sesame; Row on 45’s 16-course tasting menu.
Row on 45’s menu is good, it’s accomplished, and there’s clear technical talent in the kitchen. Amidst all the culinary wizardry, there are genuine moments of sheer joy where comfort food dances between nostalgia and bliss causing our riotous table slip into delicious silence.
The pungent Cheese and Onion punches with an umami-rich, 36-month-old Parmesan foam that is softer than a marshmallow dotted with a hefty nose of 25-year-old balsamic vinegar. The Brioche, with more laminated rings than a 100-year-old tree, is lacquered in a dark glaze of Hatta Mountain honey and date vinegar. It cracks apart to reveal a pillow-soft carb centre to which you slather with roasted chicken fat butter and piped cep jam – so lardaceously luxurious – you could rub it under your eyes twice daily to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. The brioche’s only disappointment is when it finishes. I thumb the tablecloth for brioche debris and anxiously eyeball the crumbs dutifully scrapped away by the service, hoping they will tilt my head back, tip the crumbs into my mouth, and then rub my head to make it all better. A Noirmoutier Potato is braised in kombu stock, then blanketed under a light foam, chive oil and Ostercia caviar. A Miso Sesame dessert oscillates between sweet and savoury with its miso caramel, Valhrona chocolate and rewarding crunch.
We enjoy all those courses in the main dining where personalised menus await us. The antiseptic, somewhat Kubrickian kitchen lies inside the dining room akin to a British country house poised before the vast floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Dubai Marina. Trust me when I say you want the nook of the window seats. Persist, you must.
Row on 45’s dishes: “Cheese & Onion” with aged parmesan and balsamic vinegar; Noirmoutier Potato with chive oil and caviar; Miso Sesame; Row on 45’s 16-course tasting menu.
It wants to epitomise British eclecticism and eccentricity, while living up to Dubai’s expectations. Those are hard needles to thread.
Row on 45’s fine dining menu wants fine-tuning
So why only talk about four of sixteen courses? Some dishes come across as technical first, and pleasure second. A verjus gel and Nashi pear jelly only ever saw my spoon once. One fish course is arguably overcooked, and another arguably over-seasoned. Some dishes are admirably subtle, like the gambero rosso dish, but feel shy. Where’s the whoop and fire of the Singaporean chilli crab takoyaki or the intense richness of the Hokkaido scallop tartet? True, tasting menus are rarely an assault of the restaurant’s greatest hits. That would be overwhelming, but my view is a stronger 10-course tasting menu lies within the existing sixteen. I would rather that 10 course menu, and maybe some of my money back had I paid.
Pedantry causes me probe further. The pricing demands it. Most dishes are tasty, but the flow is questionable. Few will care. Most will take photos for Instagram, munch and purr. The service is informed and generous, but not engaging, entertaining and warm. But let’s be fair: during this dinner, the restaurant is not even officially open, and there’s plenty of time for Head Chef Dan Birk and Jason’s Rowers to find their rhythm. And, this raises a point where I may be the only person who notices.
Row on 45’s personality wants to be smart but trendy, cool but sophisticated and without being overtly ultra-modern. It’s a middle-aged man who wants to wear his son’s jeans, but must iron them first. A speaker bleats out pop classics, but it’s all oddly casual in a place of white table clothes, the most delicate glassware I’ve held in Dubai (truly stunning) and service that hawkishly folds my napkin every time I sneak off to the bathroom for yet another squirt of the Santal Austral. Row on 45 wants you to relax, but it cannot do the same, unable to deviate from what’s proper and exacting. Like Osip, it wants to epitomise British eclecticism and eccentricity, while living up to Dubai’s expectations. Those are hard needles to thread. Jason, Dan, the secret lies in the service. I don’t wear a suit to work, so why should the service? Just to bring plates and pour wine?
Oh, the wine… oh how I love Row on 45’s wine pairing. But, again, the pricing. It is eye-wideningly expensive. It’s one of – if not the – most expensive pairing I know in Dubai. Globally, those pairing prices are usually reserved for the world’s best restaurants.
Row on 45’s menu: Jelly and Ice Cream; Gambero rosso with prawn head oil; Kinmedai; Samegarei.
In the final lounge – exclusive for tasting menu diners – the team unveil a delightfully Wonkaesque pick and mix of petits fours. It’s a British-style gentleman’s lounge replete with hardback books, dark furniture and – all together now – spectacular views over Dubai Marina. Over Vermouth, I wonder who should come here? I cannot get past the pricing. Listen closely when I tell you that you could save money at some two and one Michelin-starred restaurants in Dubai at this price. In Dubai: a city famed for its overpriced restaurants. Row on 45’s highs are truly high and anyone who wants to celebrate a truly special occasion should certainly shortlist it.
Row on 45’s decor between different rooms including the main reception bar with its art decor inspiration, a library-like gentleman’s lounge for after the long dinner.
Dubai Marina residents, Grosvenor House guests, Jason Atherton fans and lovers of British, Modern European or Asian-inspired cooking and ingredients. Those chasing down impressive Dubai views. Those banking on who will be in 2024’s Dubai Michelin Guide. Corporate entertainment crowds looking for somewhere with character but finesse. Anyone looking to give their credit card a Fight Club-level thrashing.
Row on 45’s dishes: Saroma Wagyu A5 beef with aligot; Hokkaido Bafun Uni; Hokkaido Scallop tartlet; Oyster snack.
Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut Champagne
Iwa 5 Sake
Domaine Weinbach Close des Capucins Sylvaner Alsace Reserve 2019
Au Pied du Mont Chauve Chassagne Montrachet ‘En Pimont’ 2018
Gaja Rossj-Bass Langhe 2021
Jermann Vintage Tinina 2017
Cakebread Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino 2017
Donnafugata Ben Rué Passito di Pantelleria 2020
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance (Natural Sweet) 2017
Row on 45, Grosvenor House, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Al Emreef Street, Dubai Marina, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Row on 45’s menu: 16-course tasting menu: AED 1145, wine pairing starts from AED 1245 and up to AED 3545. You can find the latest information from Row on 45’s Website or call +971 56 832 4545.
Row on 45’s maximalist decor with art deco influence but a lot of British eclectic quirk.
Pedantry causes me probe further. The pricing demands it. Most dishes are tasty, but the flow is questionable. Few will care. Most will take photos for Instagram, munch and purr. The service is informed and generous, but not engaging, entertaining and warm. But let’s be fair: during this dinner, the restaurant is not even officially open, and there’s plenty of time for Head Chef Dan Birk and Jason’s Rowers to find their rhythm. And, this raises a point where I may be the only person who notices.
Row on 45’s personality wants to be smart but trendy, cool but sophisticated and without being overtly ultra-modern. It’s a middle-aged man who wants to wear his son’s jeans, but must iron them first. A speaker bleats out pop classics, but it’s all oddly casual in a place of white table clothes, the most delicate glassware I’ve held in Dubai (truly stunning) and service that hawkishly folds my napkin every time I sneak off to the bathroom for yet another squirt of the Santal Austral. Row on 45 wants you to relax, but it cannot do the same, unable to deviate from what’s proper and exacting. Like Osip, it wants to epitomise British eclecticism and eccentricity, while living up to Dubai’s expectations. Those are hard needles to thread. Jason, Dan, the secret lies in the service. I don’t wear a suit to work, so why should the service? Just to bring plates and pour wine?
Oh, the wine… oh how I love Row on 45’s wine pairing. But, again, the pricing. It is eye-wideningly expensive. It’s one of – if not the – most expensive pairing I know in Dubai. Globally, those pairing prices are usually reserved for the world’s best restaurants.
Row on 45’s menu: Jelly and Ice Cream; Gambero rosso with prawn head oil; Kinmedai; Samegarei.
Row on 45, Would I Come Back?
In the final lounge – exclusive for tasting menu diners – the team unveil a delightfully Wonkaesque pick and mix of petits fours. It’s a British-style gentleman’s lounge replete with hardback books, dark furniture and – all together now – spectacular views over Dubai Marina. Over Vermouth, I wonder who should come here? I cannot get past the pricing. Listen closely when I tell you that you could save money at some two and one Michelin-starred restaurants in Dubai at this price. In Dubai: a city famed for its overpriced restaurants. Row on 45’s highs are truly high and anyone who wants to celebrate a truly special occasion should certainly shortlist it.
Row on 45’s decor between different rooms including the main reception bar with its art decor inspiration, a library-like gentleman’s lounge for after the long dinner.
Row on 45, Who Should Come Here?
Dubai Marina residents, Grosvenor House guests, Jason Atherton fans and lovers of British, Modern European or Asian-inspired cooking and ingredients. Those chasing down impressive Dubai views. Those banking on who will be in 2024’s Dubai Michelin Guide. Corporate entertainment crowds looking for somewhere with character but finesse. Anyone looking to give their credit card a Fight Club-level thrashing.
Row on 45’s dishes: Saroma Wagyu A5 beef with aligot; Hokkaido Bafun Uni; Hokkaido Scallop tartlet; Oyster snack.
Row on 45, Wine Pairing List
Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut Champagne
Iwa 5 Sake
Domaine Weinbach Close des Capucins Sylvaner Alsace Reserve 2019
Au Pied du Mont Chauve Chassagne Montrachet ‘En Pimont’ 2018
Gaja Rossj-Bass Langhe 2021
Jermann Vintage Tinina 2017
Cakebread Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino 2017
Donnafugata Ben Rué Passito di Pantelleria 2020
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance (Natural Sweet) 2017
Row on 45, Grosvenor House, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Al Emreef Street, Dubai Marina, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Row on 45’s menu: 16-course tasting menu: AED 1145, wine pairing starts from AED 1245 and up to AED 3545. You can find the latest information from Row on 45’s Website or call +971 56 832 4545.
Row on 45’s maximalist decor with art deco influence but a lot of British eclectic quirk.
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