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Sri Lanka, Upon Arrival
A sudden wave of humidity rolls forward unannounced. Taxis inch slowly forward with drivers leaning out of their cars soliciting for customers. A cacophony of noise rises from drivers pressing their car horns, and, my jet lag. “Porters” busily want to “assist you” with your bags in the hope for tips freshly minted from airport ATMs. The scent of fried breakfast foods rolling in hot oil is overtaken by the pungent smoke emanating from passing tuk-tuk mufflers. My eyesight stretches out further across the road towards a weary, arched banyan tree. Lush and heavy with draping roots obscured in the early morning haze. Feral dogs sleep beneath the tree undisturbed and unphased. Minutes creep passed 6.30 AM and the morning’s blue hour is warming to gold. What a dichotomy of chaos and solace all witnessed inches in front of the arrivals door of Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport.
Welcome to Sri Lanka, a stalwart contestant on my bucket list that was never ticked until this moment. It earns the position Country #57 in my lifetime. Do not let the scene above put you off coming. These are the reasons to travel. To witness and experience life elsewhere. Seasoned travellers know that South Asian cities, like Colombo, are often unavoidable places before you, frankly, strikeout to places that inspired you to come to Sri Lanka in the first place.
My Sri Lanka Experience
My Sri Lanka experience was mixed overall and this is entirely my fault. The good news means I would come back and return wiser. I fell victim insatiable wanderlust and over-enthusiasm that would not listen to my inner voice of pragmatism. Worse, no one provided advice to dampen my spirits. Do not make the mistakes I made.
This article breaks down into:
- Things I Wish I Knew Before Coming to Sri Lanka
- Things I Wish I Knew Once In Sri Lanka, and
- Advice & Tips About Specific Locations
If you read nothing else, read Highs and Lows below.
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
Things You Should Know Before Leaving For Sri Lanka
But First, Safety
Sri Lanka was unexpectedly rocked by terrorist attacks on Easter Sunday, April 2019 killing 259 people in churches and hotels. You should check travel advisory guidelines before booking or leaving including the country lists on the UK Foreign Office or US Travel Advisory in addition to your own country’s travel advisory board.
A backpacker favourite destination instantly suffered a drought of tourism clipping a burgeoning rise in visitors. Truth be told, I was due to travel to Sri Lanka only a few weeks in June. Mrs EatGoSee and I decided to hold back. I arrived in December 2019 to an island that was busy but missed the crowds of tourists it became known for. Hotels were quiet, restaurants even more so. The upside is reservations are notional. Guides and tuk-tuk drivers told me things still did not recover. They were hopeful and pleased to see tourists like us coming to experience Sri Lanka first hand.
Cash
Cash is king in Sri Lanka. The airport is bursting with cash machines that accept most major cards. There were much fewer cash machines outside of Colombo. You should bring hard currency with you (USD, Euros or Sterling etc) just so you have something to convert for the first few days.
You should check with restaurants if they accept credit cards. All the ones mentioned here do accept VISA. Many restaurants do not accept credit cards, especially some smaller local ones outside hotels.
Toiletries and Stuff
You should assume that certain products are hard to find in Sri Lanka and, if you can find them, they are pricier than you would expect. The following items should be bought in advance:- Sunscreen & after sun
- Deodorant
- Tampons
- Painkillers
- Mosquito repellant!
- Hand sanitizer or wet wipes
- Emergency kit
- Any medication you require
- Multiple plug converters and a multi-plug (see below)
Plugs and Sockets
Hotels often have more than one type of socket or plug available but you should not rely on this. I saw the three-pronged UK socket, the two-round prong European sockets, and, often in older colonial buildings, the rounded three-pronged socket used in India and Nepal.
Weather
Pick your location and time of year carefully: anyone who travelled around South East Asia knows about monsoon season and even the odd afternoon ‘power shower’ for an hour quenching the day’s humidity. However, Sri Lanka has two monsoon seasons notwithstanding its modest size. This means the best time of year depends on where you want to go.
Yala is the stronger monsoon season affecting the south and west of the island from April to September. Some of the nicest beaches in Sri Lanka are on this side of the island (Bentota etc).
The “maha” monsoon affects the east and north from November through to March.
Zika Free?
So far Sri Lanka is an oasis in a sea of purple Zika infected countries. This makes Sri Lanka a somewhat ideal destination for pregnant women or couples ‘trying’ who do not want to risk zika infections. You should check online to verify the latest status. There are other mosquito-borne diseases to consider however including dengue (which is no game).
Drones?
Regular readers know this topic is closer to my heart. Overall, drone photography is regulated in Sri Lanka and requires a permit. This is one of the more lengthy online application forms I have seen for drone applications. As of the date of this article, all drones were banned in Sri Lanka following the April 2019 attacks. I know drone photographers online that ‘risked it’, took their drones and flew them. The scenery is as beautiful as you could imagine. I do not recommend this and you should check whether to bring your drone before you leave. Online forums are replete with stories of people claiming their drones were confiscated at Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport. These cautionary tales could be apocryphal.
Plan Your Journey Wisely
Coco Chanel apparently said we should look in the mirror before we leave the house and then take one thing off. By analogy, I overstacked my trip to Sri Lanka. This became vividly apparent once we arrived and tried to move around (see below). You need to think carefully about how you are going to get around Sri Lanka, the time this takes and the best time of day to leave. Less is certainty more. Ask deeply what you want from the trip and channel a Jedi-like discipline to cut the excess. You will thank yourself.
Or, Plan Nothing At All?
A friend left a few weeks after me and planned NOTHING. This gave her the freedom to do what she wants when she wants. It spared the disappointment of not seeing something she planned to see. Sure you need to think about what you are going to do next every few days: searching hotels, securing bookings, thinking about how you are going to get from A to B. Yet, living spontaneously gave her freedom. I want to add that she was not travelling solo. She also took my advice to get a driver for longer journeys between cities (see below).
Nightlife
Sri Lanka is not a party place unlike some other Asian countries like Thailand or islands like Bali. Think honeymoon or backpacker tranquil scenes overlooking sunsets or the lush Hill Country listening to monkeys calling between trees. The exceptions as always will be hotel resorts putting on entertainment for guests. Sri Lanka is a lot of things but you will be hard-pressed to find lively nightlife. Colombo does have a few good popular bars such as Ce La Vie bar.
Visas
Visas are required for entry into Sri Lanka, however, many nationalities can pay on arrival. Visas will also apply to most passports that usually enjoy visa waivers including US, British, European, Canadian and Australian passports. You cannot buy the visa in the immigration line; there is a separate queue for this. Do not make the mistake I made where we only found out after lining up for over an hour at immigration…
Visas cost approximately US$30 but visa costs were waived (for European passport holders) to encourage tourism back to the island following the April 2019 attacks. As of the date of this post, this waiver system was still in place. Otherwise, you can apply for a visa online here.
Women Travelling to Sri Lanka
Mrs EatGoSee was consulted for this particular section. She is a seasoned traveller having backpacked solo in some more testing locations before she met me. Mrs EatGoSee did not feel vulnerable or threatened during her time in Sri Lanka. She acknowledges that travelling with a guy (no prizes for guessing who) that arranged tuk-tuks and walked with her everywhere may have dissuaded difficult characters she would have otherwise encountered. If you are a solo female or group female traveller in Sri Lanka, I would really welcome your comments and feedback here to add to the thread — all credit is given!
Things I Wish I Knew Once I Arrived in Sri Lanka
Arrivals, Visas and Departures: Colombo Airport
You will very likely fly into Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport.
Sri Lankan Airlines: SriLankan Airlines, a member of OneWorld Alliance, is a punctual airline with charming staff and at fraction of the cost vs other airlines, I found. Skyscanner is a solid resource for me when comparing flight prices, routes and times. You could use Skyscanner to find the best way to Colombo “CMB” (airport code). Many flights arrive late at night or early in the morning which works well from a local traffic perspective (more on this serious issue later).
Departures: Colombo Airport implemented heightened security following the April 2019 attacks so you should allow a lot of time to get through the airport when you depart. Business lounges are available.
Getting Around Sri Lanka
I have easier wrestled butchers bones off an anxiety-riddled border collie than navigated my way around Sri Lanka. This is one of the most important decisions you will make during your time in Sri Lanka. Transportation is a practical decision for any holiday but our enjoyment was seriously compromised as we grossly underestimated how hard it is to get around.
I cannot begin to impress upon you the following: you cannot underestimate how long it takes to get around Sri Lanka even within the small section. That said, here are some suggestions:
Get a Driver: This is my leading suggestion to you to get around Sri Lanka especially between locations. You should not hire a car as driving in Sri Lanka is a contact sport not for the faint of heart. You will need to apply for a special driver’s license if you do want to rent a car. You will have drivers throwing themselves at you from the time you arrive at Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport. There is a phalanx of taxi booths in the airport where you can pay for a single journey in cash at a fixed rate. Hotels may also offer you a driver but this is a more costly option. Uber is widely available within and between popular cities like Galle, Kandy, Ella and Colombo. Traffic in Sri Lanka is heavy especially within or near cities. Express highways exist but there are very few. It took us over three hours to drive less than 100km between cities. Most journeys are stop-start traffic which you should consider if you easily get car sick (like Mrs EatGoSee).
Take a Charming Train Ride: this is a must-do activity in Sri Lanka and one you should plan as part of your trip especially the iconic journey to Ella.
TOP TIP: take the train FROM Ella/Kandy, not TO Ella/Kandy. The train to Ella is packed with more tourists than screaming fans at a K-POP concert (the mind still boggles at this phenomena). The way back is remarkably more quiet increasing your chances to get a seat. Tickets should be bought (well) in advance. Luckily, low tourism crowds nowadays mean buying tickets on the day is doable. This will not be a reliable last-minute purchase as people return to lovely Sri Lanka.
Many train journeys go via Colombo so make sure you factor in changing times. It took us 7 hours to get from Galle to Kandy via Colombo. The costs are modest so treat yourself to the best class you can (first or second).
Download SL Railway Train App: SL Railway is a rudimentary smartphone application (works for iOS) that helps you plan your journey. It still needs a bit of work but it is a helpful tool to plan journeys while lying on the beach or by the pool.
Consider Cinnamon Air Taxis!!: little known option, Cinnamon Air is a seaplane air taxi that travels between key popular cities in Sri Lanka with daily scheduled flights and, also, exclusive charters. This is a more expensive option but if you are time-poor and in a group then it may be an efficient solution.
Buses: Buses are everywhere across Sri Lanka offering a very budget-friendly service. Buses are often crowded and few are air-conditioned (a serious consideration).
Scams
Sri Lankan people are effortlessly friendly and hospitable. It’s striking and endearing. However, opportunists are everywhere in the world. A few times someone came to us saying they are from our hotel, introduced themselves and promptly told us it was their day off. The conversation would then turn to offering us a tour or inviting us to ‘their friends’ shop. The first time this took me somewhat by surprise. The second and third time I revealed my hardened impatient corporate side. In short, keep it pushing.
Coco Chanel apparently said we should look in the mirror before we leave the house and then take one thing off. By analogy, I should have removed something from my trip to Sri Lanka. This became vividly apparent once we arrived and tried to move around.
Advice and Tips About Specific Locations
Colombo
Colombo is a noisy, buzzing city where daily life swirls around colonial architecture, leafy boulevards and IMMENSE traffic. Chances you are thinking about passing through Colombo but the question is: should you stay in Colombo for a while?
Colombo is not for the delicate traveller but there is certainly enough to do here for a few days. The Dutch Hospital meet Fort area is concentrated with small Hindu temples and the Dutch Period Museum making for good day time walking. There are good restaurants and bars. You could visit the famous Ministry of Crab known for its large curried or pepper crabs. The Galle Green Face is a leafy area with the historical Galle Face Hotel with its time capsule elegance perfect for drinks with sunset views.
I stayed at the Paradise Road Colombo Tintagel in the leafy Cinnamon Gardens district. This one of Colombo’s more prestigious neighbourhoods. The Paradise Road Colombo Tintagel is a striking, and impressive colonial building meticulously restored and deeply steeped in Sri Lankan history. The in-house restaurant did not impress me so I recommend you strike out into the city to find some authentic Sri Lankan rice and curry (not curry and rice). The Red Bar, however, should be on your list of must drinking places in Colombo.Galle
Galle is a tale of two cities: inside the increasingly gentrified Fort Walls and the bustling surrounding area. I recommend staying in the city if you only have a day or two.
Inside Galle Fort
Suitable for people looking for boutique hotels, cobblestoned roads, beaches, good restaurants offering local cuisine. The historical buildings tell the story of a town beautifying. Immaculate restorations sit alongside woefully dilapidated barracks desperate for a helping hand.
You should check out Church Street Social for a charming lunch or dinner inside a former merchant house elegantly decorated to contemporary standards. It is also licensed. Il Gelato makes glorious gelato from local ingredients. The owner spent months training in Bologna, Italy to open this shop in Galle! The Tuna & The Crab serves Sri Lanka’s famous whole curried crab (but check-in to see if supply is available, also not licensed).
Visit Embark, a small stray dog charity, to buy souvenirs where proceeds go to looking after stray dogs in the city.
Galle Fort is iconic in the city for an ageing white fort with a small beach in the front. There is a peninsula with an elevated vista where you can take panoramic photos of the beach and fort area. You can then spend the day ambling through Galle’s cobbled streets peering through jewellery shop windows.
Outside Galle Fort
Galle Train Station and Bus Stations are within moments of the Fort city walls. Your larger resort-style hotels are outside of the fort city including Le Grand Galle by Asia Leisure (which is where I stayed). It is a modern large hotel with multiple restaurants, a pool, bars and a decent hotel gym. You should get a sea-facing view; you did come to the coast after all!
Uda Walawe National Park & Elephant Tours
Timings: You should go early in the morning and plan to arrive around 6.30 AM. This is the time when many animals come out to feed allowing you to see elephants, peacocks, rare birds and more. It is also golden hour allowing for the best photos. You should be done by 11 AM giving you the rest of the day!
Bring a picnic: there is no food available inside the wildlife park so make sure you bring a breakfast picnic. Sometimes your hotel will put together a picnic bag for you to take with you. Just ask!
Camera equipment: the best camera you have is the one you have on you; we know that old trope. For more advanced photographers, I recommend taking a wide-angle, portrait and telephoto lens. I also took a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM which required some planning as it is a prime lens.
Invest in a Guided Tour: our guide was excellent spotting things we would have missed otherwise. Guides are very well informed about the animals and almost anything you could imagine about the park. The cost is modest and well worth investing in. TIP YOUR GUIDES! They are volunteers so your generous tips are greatly appreciated.
Consider doing this tour en route: I wish I asked our driver to take us onto Kandy from Uda Walawe as it is reasonably close to Kandy. You should think about doing this elephant tour between locations to help break up your journey time. It is about 3 hours from Galle and 2-3 hours from Kandy.
Kandy
The city is very popular with travellers and maintains a spiritual meets backpacker vibe. There are a few things worth knowing before you come here. My view is that two to three days in Kandy is plenty but you may want to allow more time to explore the immediate areas around the town centre.
Inside Central Kandy
Getting Around: Kandy sprawls irregularly making it a walkable city but you need to really confirm if a location is inside or outside the city. Tuk-tuks are everywhere and very affordable. They take cash so make sure you keep a few hundred rupee notes on you at any time. Agree on rates before you start your journey. Negotiations are possible. Uber is also popular in the city, especially from the train station.
Alcohol: there are very few licensed places in central Kandy due to the presence of the Sacred Tooth temple. One reliable spot within the central town within easy walking distance is The Royal Bar and Hotel. This is a slice of colonial history where you can sit on the balcony overlooking the street below sipping wine and cocktails under breezy fans.
Empire Cafe: this is a contemporary restaurant serving casual breakfast and lunches during the day with a view of the Sacred Temple making it an essential stop off for ice creams, teas and local curries before or after a day’s sightseeing in the Temple. You can sit on the terrace watching monks pass by heading to and from the temple sipping cold drinks under the oscillating fans.
Around Kandy
Helga’s Folly: this remains one top tips for Sri Lanka and Kandy if you are looking for a truly unique hotel stay or restaurant. The romantic dramatic decor throughout decorated by hand includes surreal images of Alice in Wonderland and other child story characters. You can read more in my full review of the restaurant. It is a must-visit and 10-minute tuk-tuk ride from the Sacred Tooth temple.
Green Chaya Spa: this is not your luxurious hotel spa. Green Chaya Spa is closer to a backpacker-friendly massage spot. The key tip is that the prices include a return tuk-tuk journey back to your hotel or location!
Advice & Tips About Specific Locations
Would I Return to Sri Lanka?
Absolutely I would come back but in the right circumstances. I would see more of the Hill Country and North East. I would allow a qualitative week for the Hill Country to pace the visit during the time when monsoon season is in the South West. Emirates Airlines offers packages to Sri Lanka and the Maldives. I want to take advantage of this deal to cover off both locations.
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