Restaurant NAAR Review: Audacious Dining in India’s Himalayas
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Restaurant NAAR Review: Audacious Dining in India's Himalayas
Restaurant NAAR by chef Prateek Sadhu cooks modern mountain cuisine deep within India’s Himalayas. It’s destination dining worthy of the treacherous journey.
Written by Liam Collens // Find other reviews here
The Highs
The Lows
The Highs
The Lows
Restaurant NAAR Review: Audacious Dining in India's Himalayas
The drive is not for the faint of heart. It’s all white knuckle, toe-curling and frankly a reckless folly for a man who wondered if he would single parent an infant and wife as the car’s tyres skirt the edges of a vertical drop somewhere around Banti. If it’s not just the shoelace-thin mountain roads, it may be a landslide that stamps you out.
One does not just end up here. You come for a reason.
Restaurant NAAR’s roads are narrow with the occasional livestock along the way.
NAAR is the destination restaurant on the lips of those who know. An audacious project helmed by Chef Prateek Sadhu, formerly of Masque in Mumbai and Per Se in New York, deep into the hills of Himachal Pradesh—a forested region of India’s Himalayas. A land known for its pristine mountain water and Indo-Chinese Himachali cuisine, the result of Tibetans escaping Chinese persecution just over the Chinese border.
It’s not just the Chinese who came. Chef Prateek is of Kashmiri ancestry and, like many Kashmiris, his family escaped the troubles in Kashmir long ago. They settled in Mumbai. Prateek returned to the mountains where, during my stay, I met others with similar stories.
“Indian food is created across three verticals: necessity, evolution and migration”, shares Prateek. He’s not wrong.
We talk over a house-made Amaro and petit fours after a final course of local cheese sourced from a Frenchman who migrated to remotest Himachal Pradesh for love. It comes with a diced rubble of apple compote–utilising Himachali apples that sing of the height of their season–encased in local honey from a producer who, apropos of nothing, walked up to the restaurant and asked if the kitchen wanted some. We should all be so lucky to have such neighbours.
A locally-made, French-style cheese with Himalayan honey and apples on a Saturday night, I did not know what to expect tonight, but it wasn’t this.
Restaurant NAAR’s Himalayan cheese selection from a local producer who emigrated from France for love and evidently to sell cheese to local restaurants.
One does not just end up here. You come for a reason.
Restaurant NAAR’s roads are narrow with the occasional livestock along the way.
NAAR is the destination restaurant on the lips of those who know. An audacious project helmed by Chef Prateek Sadhu, formerly of Masque in Mumbai and Per Se in New York, deep into the hills of Himachal Pradesh—a forested region of India’s Himalayas. A land known for its pristine mountain water and Indo-Chinese Himachali cuisine, the result of Tibetans escaping Chinese persecution just over the Chinese border.
It’s not just the Chinese who came. Chef Prateek is of Kashmiri ancestry and, like many Kashmiris, his family escaped the troubles in Kashmir long ago. They settled in Mumbai. Prateek returned to the mountains where, during my stay, I met others with similar stories.
“Indian food is created across three verticals: necessity, evolution and migration”, shares Prateek. He’s not wrong.
We talk over a house-made Amaro and petit fours after a final course of local cheese sourced from a Frenchman who migrated to remotest Himachal Pradesh for love. It comes with a diced rubble of apple compote–utilising Himachali apples that sing of the height of their season–encased in local honey from a producer who, apropos of nothing, walked up to the restaurant and asked if the kitchen wanted some. We should all be so lucky to have such neighbours.
A locally-made, French-style cheese with Himalayan honey and apples on a Saturday night, I did not know what to expect tonight, but it wasn’t this.
Restaurant NAAR’s Himalayan cheese selection from a local producer who emigrated from France for love and evidently to sell cheese to local restaurants.
Restaurant NAAR's cocktails, wine and tasting menus
NAAR offers two tasting menus: one with meaty off-cuts, local fish and more. They like to call such things ‘non-veg’ in India. The other tasting menu: vegetarian. Choose from a cocktail or a wine pairing—an impressive feat in India where, despite being a wine-producing, whiskey-swilling country, recently India seemly possess a dim and increasingly taboo attitude towards booze. Non-alcoholic pairings and wine by the bottle or glass are also available.
Dinner starts with three snacks inside a side house designed in a study of mid-century modern and bare concrete warmed with throbbing funk and the team’s youthful exuberance. Like Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler, NAAR cooks the mountain, sourcing locally and cooking seasonally compassionately. Therefore, the menu changes regularly.
Restaurant NAAR’s dining room sits 16 covers comfortably with excellent views overlooking the regional Himalayan Mountains.
Chilled rosé Champagne and Chenin Blanc are followed by tangy tomato tartlets as Marvin Gaye and Lyn Collins bounce through Marshall speakers. NAAR is a fine dining restaurant–high-concept and focused–then swaddled in a confident cool. Out are the suits and ties to make way for tattoos, jeans and lip piercings. I did not traverse hills and seas to sit restricted in clothes where, frankly, shimmying them on is like trying to get toothpaste back into the tube. NAAR is mercifully relaxed and measured where it matters–as all good restaurants should.
Restaurant NAAR bar area including mid-centry modern furniture from which to rest after a long journey while enjoying cocktails and your first round of snacks from the menu.
Dinner starts with three snacks inside a side house designed in a study of mid-century modern and bare concrete warmed with throbbing funk and the team’s youthful exuberance. Like Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler, NAAR cooks the mountain, sourcing locally and cooking seasonally compassionately. Therefore, the menu changes regularly.
Restaurant NAAR’s dining room sits 16 covers comfortably with excellent views overlooking the regional Himalayan Mountains.
Chilled rosé Champagne and Chenin Blanc are followed by tangy tomato tartlets as Marvin Gaye and Lyn Collins bounce through Marshall speakers. NAAR is a fine dining restaurant–high-concept and focused–then swaddled in a confident cool. Out are the suits and ties to make way for tattoos, jeans and lip piercings. I did not traverse hills and seas to sit restricted in clothes where, frankly, shimmying them on is like trying to get toothpaste back into the tube. NAAR is mercifully relaxed and measured where it matters–as all good restaurants should.
Restaurant NAAR bar area including mid-centry modern furniture from which to rest after a long journey while enjoying cocktails and your first round of snacks from the menu.
I watch the twilight snatch the day as the Himalayan silhouette peaks through the mist.
Restaurant NAAR's tasting menu delights
Then there are the views, where NAAR’s restrained decor plays second fiddle to the greatest of outdoors: India’s Himalayan mountains. When you think you’ve spotted the mountains’ crest, you raise your eyes a little more over the horizon, and then they rise some more. I watch the twilight snatch the day as the Himalayan silhouette peaks through the mist.
Restaurant NAAR’s Himalayan mountain views from inside the restaurant.
A trio of river trout courses arrive in quick succession. One is grilled over an open fire (“NAAR” means fire in Kashmiri), a second is acidulated like a ceviche in a tart, luminous sea buckthorn broth and a third is served over a caramelised pumpkin sauce tempered with house-made spicy chorizo, mustard green and a yeast foam. The third trout is laid over a charmingly twee plate as if borrowed from Auntie’s house.
Restaurant NAAR’s trout ceviche with sea buckthorn and then wood grilled trout with yeast foam.
A lamb brain, steeped in a black pepper sauce, is spooned over a smashed house-made Himachali corn taco with mint chutney. Next, a puddle of green chilli curry bathes shredded lamb neck shingled with crispy nettle leaves. Two thumb-sized turmeric buns make it fast work to mop the green chilli sauce (or leave some and draw a heart for the kitchen, as I did).
The kitchen sends a palate cleanser of local red plums that I could have eaten three times over.
Restaurant NAAR’s lamb neck with a green chilli curry sauce.
Within 15 courses, reasonable people will disagree, but my view is that some dishes are not yet their best selves. The trout ceviche wants crunch and texture to avoid being a mound of soft; maybe use some of that Himachali corn? The sea buckthorn, while delicious, was one note. The lamb brain taco wants a sprightly lift from a heavier hand on the mint chutney or maybe a curry leaf oil. The starters are a tasty but low-impact start, a conclusion amplified when more exciting dishes follow.
Restaurant NAAR’s lamb brain taco with mint chutney and microherbs..
Back to form, Chef Prateek serves a savoury rice porridge with crispy nubs of lion’s mane. He explains that “rice is something that is always soul-satisfying. With every menu each season, there will always be a grain.” The comforting rice porridge is flanked by smoked, barbecue pork lacquered in a sweet mango glaze. It’s near perfect.
The preserved cherries with red rice ice cream layered over chocolate cake nubs is a playful reimagination of a black forest cake that stood out among the dessert courses as one of NAAR’s best dishes.
Restaurant NAAR’s rice with lions mane, barbecued pork, mustard greens and tomato chutney; Restaurant NAAR fermented cherries with red rice icre cream and chocolate cake nubs, like a black forest cake.
As Prateek and I finish up I congratulate him on this daring endeavour and, frankly, I cannot wait to see what he will do next. I don’t know if I ate Himachali cuisine, but I tasted its future. Prateek is undoubtedly talented and spotlights a region frankly unknown to the international community. It’s commendable and, more than that, it’s enjoyable. It comes just as Indian cuisine collects international accolades with Tresind Studio, Gaggan and Gaa, among others, at the forefront. It’s dining that makes you want to stay—and maybe book a room in the adjacent Amaya hotel just to spend more time on God’s rooftop.
Restaurant NAAR’s chef Prateek Sadhu inside the kitchen with his team.
Globetrotters ruthless to taste the next best thing. Indian food aficionados. Fine dining lovers. Anyone serious about tables with a view.
Restaurant NAAR’s residents mountain dogs are around the restaurant adding to the charm and coziness of the venue.
Restaurant NAAR’s tasting menu was INR6,500. The wine pairing is also INR 6,500. Restaurant NAAR, is located at the Amaya hotel, VPO, Darwa, Kasauli, Himachal Pradesh 173026, India. Call +91 88004 22053 or book through Restaurant NAAR’s website for reservations. Visit Restaurant NAAR’s Instagram for more information.
You can find Liam Collens on Threads, Instagram or Facebook.
Restaurant NAAR’s Himalayan mountain views from inside the restaurant.
A trio of river trout courses arrive in quick succession. One is grilled over an open fire (“NAAR” means fire in Kashmiri), a second is acidulated like a ceviche in a tart, luminous sea buckthorn broth and a third is served over a caramelised pumpkin sauce tempered with house-made spicy chorizo, mustard green and a yeast foam. The third trout is laid over a charmingly twee plate as if borrowed from Auntie’s house.
Restaurant NAAR’s trout ceviche with sea buckthorn and then wood grilled trout with yeast foam.
A lamb brain, steeped in a black pepper sauce, is spooned over a smashed house-made Himachali corn taco with mint chutney. Next, a puddle of green chilli curry bathes shredded lamb neck shingled with crispy nettle leaves. Two thumb-sized turmeric buns make it fast work to mop the green chilli sauce (or leave some and draw a heart for the kitchen, as I did).
The kitchen sends a palate cleanser of local red plums that I could have eaten three times over.
Restaurant NAAR’s lamb neck with a green chilli curry sauce.
Within 15 courses, reasonable people will disagree, but my view is that some dishes are not yet their best selves. The trout ceviche wants crunch and texture to avoid being a mound of soft; maybe use some of that Himachali corn? The sea buckthorn, while delicious, was one note. The lamb brain taco wants a sprightly lift from a heavier hand on the mint chutney or maybe a curry leaf oil. The starters are a tasty but low-impact start, a conclusion amplified when more exciting dishes follow.
Restaurant NAAR’s lamb brain taco with mint chutney and microherbs..
Back to form, Chef Prateek serves a savoury rice porridge with crispy nubs of lion’s mane. He explains that “rice is something that is always soul-satisfying. With every menu each season, there will always be a grain.” The comforting rice porridge is flanked by smoked, barbecue pork lacquered in a sweet mango glaze. It’s near perfect.
The preserved cherries with red rice ice cream layered over chocolate cake nubs is a playful reimagination of a black forest cake that stood out among the dessert courses as one of NAAR’s best dishes.
Restaurant NAAR’s rice with lions mane, barbecued pork, mustard greens and tomato chutney; Restaurant NAAR fermented cherries with red rice icre cream and chocolate cake nubs, like a black forest cake.
Restaurant NAAR, Would I Return?
As Prateek and I finish up I congratulate him on this daring endeavour and, frankly, I cannot wait to see what he will do next. I don’t know if I ate Himachali cuisine, but I tasted its future. Prateek is undoubtedly talented and spotlights a region frankly unknown to the international community. It’s commendable and, more than that, it’s enjoyable. It comes just as Indian cuisine collects international accolades with Tresind Studio, Gaggan and Gaa, among others, at the forefront. It’s dining that makes you want to stay—and maybe book a room in the adjacent Amaya hotel just to spend more time on God’s rooftop.
Restaurant NAAR’s chef Prateek Sadhu inside the kitchen with his team.
Restaurant NAAR, Who Should Come Here?
Globetrotters ruthless to taste the next best thing. Indian food aficionados. Fine dining lovers. Anyone serious about tables with a view.
Restaurant NAAR’s residents mountain dogs are around the restaurant adding to the charm and coziness of the venue.
Restaurant NAAR’s tasting menu was INR6,500. The wine pairing is also INR 6,500. Restaurant NAAR, is located at the Amaya hotel, VPO, Darwa, Kasauli, Himachal Pradesh 173026, India. Call +91 88004 22053 or book through Restaurant NAAR’s website for reservations. Visit Restaurant NAAR’s Instagram for more information.
You can find Liam Collens on Threads, Instagram or Facebook.
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