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Estiatorio Milos, Dubai: Atlantis the Royal’s New High-End Greek, Worth It?
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Review: Estiatorio Milos, Dubai: Atlantis the Royal's New High-End Greek, Worth It?
Estiatorio Milos Dubai’s bright new home in Atlantis The Royal lays the scene for high-end, high price, Greek dining, but worth it?
Estiatorio Milos Dubai, Menu: raw seafood and fish starters: AED 110 - 2600; starters: AED95 - 225; salads, vegetables: AED 55 - 90; whole fish and seafood: market price: AED 345 - 950; sides from AED 45. Wine by the glass starts at AED 90. Information is true as of publishing. Find the latest information on Estiatoria Milos Dubai’s Website or call tel. 04 426 2555. Estiatorio Milos Dubai, Atlantis The Royal, Crescent Road, Palm Crescent, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates.
Written by Liam Collens // Find other reviews here. Liam was invited to Estiatorio Milos as a guest.
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The Highs
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Review: Estiatorio Milos, Dubai: Atlantis the Royal's New High-End Greek, Worth It?
If Dubai loves a trend, it adores a resurrection. If you live long enough, you’ll see things come back around. Peruvian is back and, now, so is Greek. Greek cuisine enjoyed a strong run in Dubai years ago. I visited many places. I wrote about a few. It’s clear why. Fresh ingredients cooked simply, what’s not to like? The ingredients’ quality and the skill of the cooking do the talking, but is it worth listening?
Famed Costas Spiliadis expands his burgeoning empire towards Dubai’s Atlantis The Royal after successful launches in Montreal, New York, London and, of course, Athens. So, how does Estiatorio Milos compete in a city already well-placed for high-end Greek restaurants and name chefs?
Inside Estiatorio Milos’ dining room looking into the kitchen on the right and the Atlantis the Royal in the centre.
Famed Costas Spiliadis expands his burgeoning empire towards Dubai’s Atlantis The Royal after successful launches in Montreal, New York, London and, of course, Athens. So, how does Estiatorio Milos compete in a city already well-placed for high-end Greek restaurants and name chefs?
Inside Estiatorio Milos’ dining room looking into the kitchen on the right and the Atlantis the Royal in the centre.
Estiatorio Milos’s dining room astounds
Like most people, I did not go to the Atlantis The Royal’s opening (I know, I can’t believe it either) making this visit to Estiatorio Milos the first time I latch eyes on this behemoth. Estiatorio Milos’s vaulted high-end Greek dining finds a new home in the swanky new Atlantis The Royal; so new, you can almost smell the paint.
Estiatorio Milos’s jaw-dropping dining space affords uninterrupted views facing back onto Atlantis The Royal’s elegant Tetris-like stack. I say uninterrupted. Periodic fountain bursts light up the sky, like a mini-Dubai Fountains, while you munch on paper-thin courgette and eggplant with saganaki cheese (AED 95).
The bleach-white interior is warmed with wood, a curious stack of apples and oversized potted plants inside this cacophonous atrium punctured with chandeliers. To the right lies an ice bank of glistening fish and seafood, so fresh, a langoustine attempts to make an escape, not once, but twice while I stand in awe. Godspeed, my friend. Next door, a phalanx of busy head-down cooks (in the sort of tall white chef’s hat I was sure died out a generation ago) churn out Black Angus striploin steaks and more (AED 345). Buttressed against all of this lies an array of tables, like ours, amidst this cavernous funnel towards the fountains and Atlantis The Royal. It’s an inside-outside, al fresco dining space. That ice bank may be even more attractive during the summer months.
Inside Estiatorio Milos’ dining room looking into the kitchen on the right and the Atlantis the Royal in the centre together with their sizeable back bar.
Estiatorio Milos’s jaw-dropping dining space affords uninterrupted views facing back onto Atlantis The Royal’s elegant Tetris-like stack. I say uninterrupted. Periodic fountain bursts light up the sky, like a mini-Dubai Fountains, while you munch on paper-thin courgette and eggplant with saganaki cheese (AED 95).
The bleach-white interior is warmed with wood, a curious stack of apples and oversized potted plants inside this cacophonous atrium punctured with chandeliers. To the right lies an ice bank of glistening fish and seafood, so fresh, a langoustine attempts to make an escape, not once, but twice while I stand in awe. Godspeed, my friend. Next door, a phalanx of busy head-down cooks (in the sort of tall white chef’s hat I was sure died out a generation ago) churn out Black Angus striploin steaks and more (AED 345). Buttressed against all of this lies an array of tables, like ours, amidst this cavernous funnel towards the fountains and Atlantis The Royal. It’s an inside-outside, al fresco dining space. That ice bank may be even more attractive during the summer months.
Inside Estiatorio Milos’ dining room looking into the kitchen on the right and the Atlantis the Royal in the centre together with their sizeable back bar.
Ten points to whoever spends their day peeling asparagus stems; your work does not go unappreciated.
Estiatorio Milos’s food and drink menu
Estiatorio Milos is described online either as Greek or, more vaguely, as Mediterranean. Both are true, save that you will not find Neopolitan pizzas, socca from the South of France or traces of anything outside of the Peloponessus or Greek isles. I’m here to tell you Estiatorio Milos is Greek. Decidedly Greek.
A menu of forty-odd dishes starts with the ever-trendy raw selection, a clutch of starters and, of course, grilled meats, whole fish and seafood intended to be shared. This is a good time to sit you down with a warm drink and tell you that Estiatorio Milos is pricey. And, no, I don’t mean “hmm, does that seem a little high to you?” pricey. No, I mean somewhere just above “do I have enough credit cards?” but below “which kidney is my least favourite?” pricey.
But, so what? Atlantis The Royal is intentionally pitched towards high-end luxury. The generationally wealthy, which I am not, also deserve somewhere to play, frolic and graze on oscietra caviar at AED1750 a throw (yes, the actual price).
Estiatorio Milos’s food and cocktail menu
A menu of forty-odd dishes starts with the ever-trendy raw selection, a clutch of starters and, of course, grilled meats, whole fish and seafood intended to be shared. This is a good time to sit you down with a warm drink and tell you that Estiatorio Milos is pricey. And, no, I don’t mean “hmm, does that seem a little high to you?” pricey. No, I mean somewhere just above “do I have enough credit cards?” but below “which kidney is my least favourite?” pricey.
But, so what? Atlantis The Royal is intentionally pitched towards high-end luxury. The generationally wealthy, which I am not, also deserve somewhere to play, frolic and graze on oscietra caviar at AED1750 a throw (yes, the actual price).
Estiatorio Milos’s food and cocktail menu
Estaotorio Milos’ starters, mains and desserts
Our starters kick off with an early highlight of four tuna sashimi slabs wallowing in a pool of Estiatorio Milos’ own olive oil sourced from a private island – of course it is (AED 130). Light, peppery, delicious. Seldom does the bread get a mention in these lines, but the charred rounds of housemade bread plunged in (yet more) oregano-scented olive oil exemplifies the virtue of ingredients and skill. A Greek spread of pungent taramosalata and cooling tzatziki (among others) is easily shared among four or more people, but you’ll need refills of that squidgy grilled pitta bread, unless you’re a family of Coeliacs (AED 165). You are well-advised to fill up on the bread early unless you parked your yacht nearby, in which case, carry on. A bottle of Greek sparkling Amalia Brut chases it all down. Enquiries will be made at MMI about stocking some in my cellar.
The remaining starters oscillate between good and perfunctory. Petals of grilled Holland peppers (I assume these are Dutch peppers?) glistening with – you guessed it – extra virgin olive oil and aged balsamic (AED 85). I would enjoy a little more grilling to amplify the peppers’ sweetness and lend more char smoke. A (much-touted) Chesapeake Bay crab cake arrives on a rubble of pearly-soft white beans (AED 225). That’s over US$60 at today’s exchange rate for a crab cake, FYI. It’s pleasant but all one texture. It wants heft, a crispy crust, seasoning, herbs and a generous shower of citrus. It’s a little too simple at this price. The courgette flowers stuffed with feta also wants a thinner batter (AED 95, I can’t bring myself to say zucchini).
Our charming waiter advises us against over-ordering. I always appreciate this, even if we don’t order one kilo of lamb chops (AED 320). We opt for a whole sea bass baked in a salt crust and a fillet mignon, medium rare, with “hand-cut Greek fried potatoes” (which are chips (or fries) to us proletariat, AED 380). The sea bass is ‘market price by kg’. I was not paying, but we can all use our imaginations as “market price” is never a euphemism for “cheap as hand-cut Greek fried potatoes”. Nevermind, both courses were executed well. Our sea bass dressed in – all together now – olive oil, lemon and capers feeds four people, especially when supplemented with plates of stamnagathi greens and steamed asparagus (AED 60 each). Ten points to whoever spends their day peeling asparagus stems; your work does not go unappreciated. A further ten points for the tableside salt crack and filleting of the sea bass by our wonderful waiter. Our fillet mignon is precisely cooked and sings of ageing. My only gripe is that I like a heavily seasoned steak with a solid crisp bark, but I am a peculiar man and reasonable people will disagree.
A chocolate tart arrived with Ravani, a syrupy Greek coconut cake arrives, where the chocolate tart was mercilessly demolished as the Ravani watches on.
Estiatorio Milos’s tuna sashimi; Holland peppers; griled octopus; crab cake; salt crusted sea bass filleted and the fillet mignon.
Estaotorio Milos is decidedly special occasions only due to its price point, which will not touch the sides if you own a shipping company. Or two. Those tempted to skirt its cost depths could pitch up at the bar, enjoy the ambience, views of Atlantis The Royal and dancing fountains while enjoying one the largest Greek wine selections I’ve seen in Dubai. (All for research purposes of course.) As with any new opening, kinks will be worked out. I hope so, as this Atlantis The Royal’s set appear to be a discerning crowd. With the plethora of restaurants within the hotel – as well as Michelin Star holders Ossiano and Tresind Studio moments away – modest adjustments in seasoning, cooking and plating may head off temptations to look astray.
Estiatorio Milos’ back bar and bench dining area in the restaurant.
Estaotorio Milos may be more calibrated towards Atlantis The Royal’s monied hotel guests. UAE residents, if you have a special occasion or a corporate expense account that needs a home, step on up.
Estiatorio Milos’s Ravani coconut syrup cake and the chocolate tart.
The remaining starters oscillate between good and perfunctory. Petals of grilled Holland peppers (I assume these are Dutch peppers?) glistening with – you guessed it – extra virgin olive oil and aged balsamic (AED 85). I would enjoy a little more grilling to amplify the peppers’ sweetness and lend more char smoke. A (much-touted) Chesapeake Bay crab cake arrives on a rubble of pearly-soft white beans (AED 225). That’s over US$60 at today’s exchange rate for a crab cake, FYI. It’s pleasant but all one texture. It wants heft, a crispy crust, seasoning, herbs and a generous shower of citrus. It’s a little too simple at this price. The courgette flowers stuffed with feta also wants a thinner batter (AED 95, I can’t bring myself to say zucchini).
Our charming waiter advises us against over-ordering. I always appreciate this, even if we don’t order one kilo of lamb chops (AED 320). We opt for a whole sea bass baked in a salt crust and a fillet mignon, medium rare, with “hand-cut Greek fried potatoes” (which are chips (or fries) to us proletariat, AED 380). The sea bass is ‘market price by kg’. I was not paying, but we can all use our imaginations as “market price” is never a euphemism for “cheap as hand-cut Greek fried potatoes”. Nevermind, both courses were executed well. Our sea bass dressed in – all together now – olive oil, lemon and capers feeds four people, especially when supplemented with plates of stamnagathi greens and steamed asparagus (AED 60 each). Ten points to whoever spends their day peeling asparagus stems; your work does not go unappreciated. A further ten points for the tableside salt crack and filleting of the sea bass by our wonderful waiter. Our fillet mignon is precisely cooked and sings of ageing. My only gripe is that I like a heavily seasoned steak with a solid crisp bark, but I am a peculiar man and reasonable people will disagree.
A chocolate tart arrived with Ravani, a syrupy Greek coconut cake arrives, where the chocolate tart was mercilessly demolished as the Ravani watches on.
Estiatorio Milos’s tuna sashimi; Holland peppers; griled octopus; crab cake; salt crusted sea bass filleted and the fillet mignon.
Estaotorio Milos’, Would I Return?
Estaotorio Milos is decidedly special occasions only due to its price point, which will not touch the sides if you own a shipping company. Or two. Those tempted to skirt its cost depths could pitch up at the bar, enjoy the ambience, views of Atlantis The Royal and dancing fountains while enjoying one the largest Greek wine selections I’ve seen in Dubai. (All for research purposes of course.) As with any new opening, kinks will be worked out. I hope so, as this Atlantis The Royal’s set appear to be a discerning crowd. With the plethora of restaurants within the hotel – as well as Michelin Star holders Ossiano and Tresind Studio moments away – modest adjustments in seasoning, cooking and plating may head off temptations to look astray.
Estiatorio Milos’ back bar and bench dining area in the restaurant.
Estaotorio Milos’, Who Should Come Here?
Estaotorio Milos may be more calibrated towards Atlantis The Royal’s monied hotel guests. UAE residents, if you have a special occasion or a corporate expense account that needs a home, step on up.
Estiatorio Milos’s Ravani coconut syrup cake and the chocolate tart.
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